"innisfree - Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Innisfree - Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Squalane, cetearyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane, diisostearyl malate and c12-16 alcohols in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassoside 0.15% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.05% - 0.15%, asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.40% and asiatic acid 0.01% - 0.10% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 1.20% - 1.80% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 86.21A$ in Australia, for 25.00$ in the United States and for 32.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

What can the product work for?

Does not work for

Evens skin tone

Anti-aging

What does the product description say?

A complex that helps soothe the skin and reduce visible signs of irritation. . Panthenol.

Source: Sephora CA

This product contains asiaticoside, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

asiaticoside 0.1% - 0.4%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

madecassoside 0.15% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

camellia sinensis leaf extract 0.1% - 0.35%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

Moisturizing

What does the product description say?

Ideal for daily use in place of your moisturizer, or for targeted care.

Source: Sephora CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

panthenol 1.2% - 1.8%

Irritation risk: