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innisfree Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil
innisfree

innisfree Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium·100% recommend (1 review)
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Madecassoside + 12 more
Works well
What the product description says
“What it is: A multi-use rescue balm with cica and bija seed oil to help strengthen your skin's protective barrier while improving the look of uneven skin texture.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.2–1.8%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.4–5.1%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~2.7–4.1%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–3.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.4–2.1%
Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.2%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.15%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.01–0.1%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~1.7–2.6%
C12-16 alcohols· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture~0.85–1.3%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.35–0.85%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Madecassoside, Asiaticoside + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
Camellia japonica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.1–0.4%
Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.05–0.25%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%
Anti-aging
Side benefit the brand mentions · Madecassoside, Asiaticoside + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“A complex that helps soothe the skin and reduce visible signs of irritation. . Panthenol.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product contains asiaticoside, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Citrus unshiu peel extract
Medium risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus unshiu peel extract—High~0.05–0.3%est.
Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
C12-16 alcoholsHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's textureMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Camellia japonica leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Alternatives
The closest match we found
SoonJung Cica Balm-Panthensoside 5
Etude House SoonJung Cica Balm-Panthensoside 5
Closest match63% match
$14.11
View all alternatives

User reviews

Would you recommend?
100%·yes

1 of 1 community members would buy it again.

100% would0% wouldn't
  • Varsha· Feb 2023Recommends

    the Cica balm is super effective at reducing any type of irritation. I used it as a light cream/serum equivalent before my main moisturizer both day & night (I have dryer skin) and it absorbed really well and I also saw inflammation from blemishes go down.

What reviewers noticed
Marker shows the average response

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.8–7.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~3.4–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane~2.7–4.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Squalane~2.1–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cyclohexasiloxane~1.7–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Cetearyl alcohol~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Panthenol~1.2–1.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
1,2-hexanediol~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
C12-16 alcohols~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture

More about C12-16 alcohols
Diisostearyl malate~0.5–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate
Polysorbate 60~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Tromethamine~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Palmitic acid~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Cetearyl glucoside~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Torreya nucifera seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Torreya nucifera seed oil
Disodium edta~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Madecassoside~0.15–0.5%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Asiaticoside~0.1–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Camellia japonica leaf extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica leaf extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Citrus unshiu peel extract~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus unshiu peel extract
Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract
Orchid extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract
Madecassic acid~0.05–0.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Asiatic acid~0.01–0.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl alcohol, Panthenol, 1,2-hexanediol, C12-16 alcohols, Diisostearyl malate, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated lecithin, Palmitic acid, Cetearyl glucoside, Torreya nucifera seed oil, Disodium edta, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Camellia japonica leaf extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Citrus unshiu peel extract, Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract, Orchid extract, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
innisfreeCica Balm with Bija Seed OilYOUR PRODUCTEtude HouseSoonJung Cica Balm-Panthensoside 5Transparent LabZI-K Cica Repairing GelVegreenSkin Purifying Tea Tree Gel Cream
Match—63%58%54%
Price—$14.11$18.89—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 96 of 97 of 9
Key difference—Phenyl TrimethiconeCentella Asiatica ExtractCentella Asiatica Extract
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"innisfree - Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Innisfree - Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Squalane, cetearyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane, diisostearyl malate and c12-16 alcohols in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassoside 0.15% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.05% - 0.15%, asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.40% and asiatic acid 0.01% - 0.10% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
  • This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 1.20% - 1.80% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 86.21A$ in Australia, for 25.00$ in the United States and for 32.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
innisfree Cica Balm with Bija Seed Oil
innisfreeCica Balm with Bija Seed Oil
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