Holika Holika Pure Essence Mugwort Foam Cleanser

Holika Holika Pure Essence Mugwort Foam Cleanser

Efficacy50/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Cleansing
Myristic acid, Lauric acid + 6 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“Pure Essence Mugwort Foam Cleanser”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (glyceryl stearate, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, peg-100 stearate, polysorbate 20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, stearic acid) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Even though this formulation is mild, the following cleansing agents could trigger an irritation or allergy for some people: sodium methyl cocoyl taurate

Myristic acidEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic~7.3–9%
Lauric acidEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes~2–2.4%
Palmitic acidEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~1.4–1.8%
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as cleansing agent~1–1.2%
Stearic acidEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1–1.3%
Glyceryl stearateEffect: HighAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–0.8%
Peg-100 stearateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.85%
Polysorbate 20Effect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~0.45–0.7%
Exfoliation
Allantoin
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Purifying Charcoal Powder acts as a lightweight exfoliant, buffing away dead skin cells without stripping away vital moisture.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3–3.7%est.
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as cleansing agentHigh~1–1.2%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~7.3–9%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesMedium~2–2.4%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~7.3–9%est.
Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes3/5~2–2.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Myristic acid~7.3–9%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propylene glycol~3–3.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Potassium hydroxide~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Lauric acid~2–2.4%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
CleansingAntibacterialAnti-blemish

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

More about Lauric acid
Peg-32~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps dissolve other ingredients and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Peg-32
Palmitic acid~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Beeswax~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Stearic acid~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
1,2-hexanediol~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate~1–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as cleansing agent

More about Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Artemisia princeps leaf extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Butylene glycol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glyceryl stearate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Polysorbate 20~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Allantoin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Canadian colloidal clay~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Houttuynia cordata extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Centella asiatica extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Saponaria officinalis extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Oryza sativa extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract
Charcoal powder~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Benefits for the skin are not clear

More about Charcoal powder
Polyquaternium-7~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish

More about Polyquaternium-7
Propanediol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Silica~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Peg-14m~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-14m
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help improve the product's texture

More about Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone
Triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Chromium oxide greens~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Ci 77492~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant. Usually well-tolerated

More about Ci 77492
Parfum~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Myristic acid, Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Potassium hydroxide, Lauric acid, Peg-32, Palmitic acid, Beeswax, Stearic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Artemisia princeps leaf extract, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Polysorbate 20, Allantoin, Canadian colloidal clay, Houttuynia cordata extract, Centella asiatica extract, Saponaria officinalis extract, Oryza sativa extract, Charcoal powder, Polyquaternium-7, Propanediol, Silica, Peg-14m, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, Triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium benzoate, Chromium oxide greens, Ci 77492, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Holika HolikaPure Essence Mugwort Foam CleanserYOUR PRODUCTOngredientsSkin Barrier Moisture Deep CleansersieroDustin Dun Cleansing FoamVILLAGE 11 FACTORYMoisture Cleansing Foam
Match—42%42%40%
Price$11.61$10.14−$1.47$38.73+$27.12$14.20+$2.59
Shared key ingredients—10 of 139 of 138 of 13
Key difference—Tripeptide-1Salicylic AcidPhytosphingosine
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
  6. 6
Holika Holika Pure Essence Mugwort Foam Cleanser
Holika HolikaPure Essence Mugwort Foam Cleanser

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