Holika Holika Aqua Petit BB Cream
Works for
1 of 4 advertised claims delivered
Sun protectionSPF 25 · 3 UV filters · Partial spectrumWeak protectionSPF under 30
This product does not offer good protection against UVA rays.
MoisturizingPeg-10 dimethicone, Sodium hyaluronate + 8 moreGood evidence
“Moisturising .”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, methicone.
Anti-agingCamellia sinensis leaf extractLimited evidence
“And vitamin E increases the elasticity and smoothness of the skin.”
This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.
The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).
Anti-blemishCamellia sinensis leaf extractWeak evidence
“And also, BB-creams does not clog the pores and does not create the effect of a mask on the face by allowing the skin to breathe.”
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy6 strong irritants: Chrysanthemum morifolium flower extract, Nelumbo nucifera flower extract + 4 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
ComedogenicClean of flagged comedogenic ingredientsNone flagged
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Ingredients
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Water~45–55%
Cyclopentasiloxane~5.9–7.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
More about CyclopentasiloxaneTitanium dioxide~5–6.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
More about Titanium dioxideDipropylene glycol~3.2–4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
More about Dipropylene glycolGlycerin~2.8–3.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinTalc~2.5–3%
Peg-10 dimethicone~2–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss
More about Peg-10 dimethiconeEthylhexyl methoxycinnamate~2.1–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateDimethicone~1.5–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconeZinc oxide~1.7–2.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant
More about Zinc oxideHexyldecyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate~1.1–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Disteardimonium hectorite~0.9–1.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of clay that is used to thicken the product consistency
More about Disteardimonium hectoriteIsoamyl laurate~0.8–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture
More about Isoamyl laurateMagnesium sulfate~0.75–1.15%
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.7–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture
More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymerSilica~0.95–1.15%
Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer~0.65–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of silicone that create a smooth product finish and can create an optical soft-focus effect on the skin. Helps to thicken the product consistency
More about Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymerC12-14 pareth-3~0.6–0.95%
Piper methysticum leaf/root/stem extract~0.55–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Iron oxides~0.6–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear
More about Iron oxidesCi 77492~0.5–0.8%
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolAcrylates/dimethicone copolymer~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen), evenly disperse pigements and create a nice product consistency
More about Acrylates/dimethicone copolymerJojoba esters~0.55–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
More about Jojoba estersIron oxides~0.5–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear
More about Iron oxidesCi 77491~0.5–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating
More about Ci 77491Methicone~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduces the water loss from the skin surface
More about MethiconePalmitic acid~0.55–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
More about Palmitic acidAluminum hydroxide~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)
More about Aluminum hydroxideAluminum stearate~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to help evenly disperse other ingredients (for example, pigment) in a formulation
More about Aluminum stearateIron oxides~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear
More about Iron oxidesCi 77499~0.35–0.6%
Methylparaben~0.15–0.3%
Propylparaben~0.2–0.4%
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateCamellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
More about Camellia sinensis leaf extractChrysanthemum morifolium flower extract~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
More about Chrysanthemum morifolium flower extractNelumbo nucifera flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Lavandula angustifolia flower extract~0.3–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
Essential oil that can be irritating
More about Lavandula angustifolia flower extractLilium candidum flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Rosa hybrid flower extract~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- High
Syringa vulgaris extract~0.15–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Parfum~0.15–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumButylparaben~0.15–0.3%
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
More about Sodium hyaluronateHydrogenated lecithin~0.1–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.
More about Hydrogenated lecithinIngredient list view
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Titanium dioxide, Dipropylene glycol, Glycerin, Talc, Peg-10 dimethicone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Zinc oxide, Hexyldecyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate, Disteardimonium hectorite, Isoamyl laurate, Magnesium sulfate, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Silica, Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, C12-14 pareth-3, Piper methysticum leaf/root/stem extract, Iron oxides, Ci 77492, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, Jojoba esters, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Methicone, Palmitic acid, Aluminum hydroxide, Aluminum stearate, Iron oxides, Ci 77499, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chrysanthemum morifolium flower extract, Nelumbo nucifera flower extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract, Lilium candidum flower extract, Rosa hybrid flower extract, Syringa vulgaris extract, Parfum, Butylparaben, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrogenated lecithin
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Product summary
"Holika Holika - Aqua Petit BB Cream" does not provide enough UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage the skin, leading to early signs of aging and pigmentation issues.
It contains good moisturizing ingredients and can double as a hydrating day cream.
Sunscreen filters
This is a "mixed" sunscreen in the sense that it uses both mineral and organic (so-called "chemical") sun filters. Here are the organic filters this product uses: octinoxate. As for the mineral filters, this sunscreen uses both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Irritation risk
We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 28.92CA$ in Canada, for 19.49$ in the United States and for 6.95£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
- 4A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxideonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 5
- 6
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