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Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 80% Moist Cream
Holika Holika

Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 80% Moist Cream

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Laminaria japonica extract, Peg-10 dimethicone + 15 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Aloe Soothing Essence 80% Moist Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cyclomethicone, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone.

Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.65%
Peg-10 dimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~0.35–0.65%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%
CyclomethiconeKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer~1.2–1.5%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.4%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.7–1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.9–6%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~4.2–5.1%
Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together. Can help to soften upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.1–1.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–0.85%
Anti-blemish
Centella asiatica extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract + 1 more
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“Aloe Vera possesses anti-bacterial properties, helping to prevent and heal blemishes while Ectonin helps to reduce inflammation, making this moisturiser great for acne-prone and sensitive skin types.”
Source: Lookfantastic

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–0.85%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Melia azadirachta flower extract + 7 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Aloe barbadensis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%
Solanum melongena fruit extractEffect: LowEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Coccinia indica fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%
Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Tocopherol + 1 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains centella asiatica extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.5–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–0.85%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Aloe barbadensis flower extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.75–1.1%est.
Dimethicone/peg-10/15 crosspolymerHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.5–0.8%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Coccinia indica fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Solanum melongena fruit extractEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.4–0.65%est.
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.9–6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Butylene glycol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Methylpropanediol~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Dimethicone~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
1,2-hexanediol~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Dimethicone/peg-10/15 crosspolymer~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Dimethicone/peg-10/15 crosspolymer
Cyclomethicone~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer

More about Cyclomethicone
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Ectoin~0.7–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.5–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Propanediol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dioscorea japonica root extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dioscorea japonica root extract
Laminaria japonica extract~0.4–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
Peg-10 dimethicone~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss

More about Peg-10 dimethicone
Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together. Can help to soften upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone
Peg-10 dimethicone crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-10 dimethicone crosspolymer
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Dipropylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Melia azadirachta flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Ocimum sanctum leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals

More about Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Coccinia indica fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Coccinia indica fruit extract
Curcuma longa root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Corallina officinalis extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Aloe barbadensis flower extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Aloe barbadensis flower extract
Solanum melongena fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Solanum melongena fruit extract
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium citrate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sodium chloride~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene glycol, Methylpropanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-hexanediol, Dimethicone/peg-10/15 crosspolymer, Cyclomethicone, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Ectoin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Propanediol, Dioscorea japonica root extract, Laminaria japonica extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Peg-10 dimethicone, Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, Peg-10 dimethicone crosspolymer, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Pentylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Coccinia indica fruit extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Aloe barbadensis flower extract, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Citric acid, Tocopherol, Sodium citrate, Sodium benzoate, Sodium chloride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
  6. 6
    Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 80% Moist Cream
Holika HolikaAloe Soothing Essence 80% Moist Cream
Buy at Yesstyle$19.35Amazon

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Buy at Yesstyle$19.35Amazon

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