Helia-D Cell Concept Regenerating serum

Helia-D Cell Concept Regenerating serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Moisturizing
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Glycerin + 2 more
Works
What the product description says
“The serum contains soothing, regenerating, moisturising ingredients.”
Source: Helia-D

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, butylene glycol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~5.3–7.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.2%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~2–3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.7–4%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: potassium azeloyl diglycinate

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~5.3–7.9%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract
May help

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~2–3%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract
May help

This product contains centella asiatica extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~2–3%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Centella asiatica extract
May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate.

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~5.3–7.9%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~2–3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 4 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~2–3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.6–1.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate~5.3–7.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

More about Potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Glycerin~3.5–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~2.7–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Centella asiatica extract~2–3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan gum~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Citric acid~0.6–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Centella asiatica extract, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan gum, Citric acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Helia-DCell Concept Regenerating serumYOUR PRODUCTJetske UlteeAzelaic acid serumSKIN 1004.Azelaic Acid 10 AmpouleGeek GorgeousaPAD Serum
Match—94%93%93%
Price—$44.60$21.60$15.53
Shared key ingredients—2 of 33 of 32 of 3
Key difference—Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateAzelaic AcidAllantoin
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Helia-D - Cell Concept Regenerating serum" is effective for: Evens skin tone

This product could be helpful for: Anti-oxidation, Moisturizing, Anti-aging and Anti-blemish, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (5.30% - 7.90%). It is a derivative of Azelaic Acid. It is less studied than Azelaic Acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with Azelaic Acid. Because of this property, products with Potassium Azeloyl Digclycinate can have a nicer texture.
  • Humectants (glycerin 3.50% - 5.20%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Helia-D Cell Concept Regenerating serum
Helia-DCell Concept Regenerating serum

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