PRODUCT REVIEW
gruum öka Gel Serum - Youth Restoring
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Packed with fruit extracts to provide powerfully antioxidant vitamins including A, C and E – these slow down skin sagging and the formation of fine lines and wrinkles by reducing the damage caused by free radicals.
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
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Evens skin tone
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
retinyl palmitate
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Exfoliation
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
tartaric acid
0.15% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Show more
Moisturizing
sodium hyaluronate
0.1% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
saccharum officinarum extract
0.4% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
helianthus annuus seed oil
0.15% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
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Anti-oxidation
tartaric acid
0.15% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil
0.1% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
citrus limon fruit extract
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
propylene glycol
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
retinyl palmitate
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Potential irritants
citrus limon fruit extract
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
propylene glycol
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
glycerin
4.1% -
6.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
phenoxyethanol
0.5% -
1%
Irritation risk:
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Aloe barbadensis leaf powder, Sodium hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Vitis vinifera fruit extract, Propylene glycol, Lactic acid, Citric acid, Glycolic acid, Malic acid, Tartaric acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Dunaliella salina extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinyl palmitate, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Foeniculum vulgare oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damage
- Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.
- Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Control of keratinization with á-hydroxy acids and related compounds: I. Topical treatment of ichthyotic disorders
- Method of treating wrinkles using tartaric acid
- Impact of the condition of storage of tartaric acid solutions on the production and stability of glyoxylic acid
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Dunaliella salina alga extract inhibits the production of interleukin-6, nitric oxide, and reactive oxygen species by regulating nuclear factor-κB/Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription in virus-infected RAW264.7 cells
- Biochemical composition and bioactivity screening of various extracts from Dunaliella salina, a green microalga
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies