Gardiner Family Apothecary Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108

Gardiner Family Apothecary Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108

SPF 45Efficacy90/100IrritancyLow·5 UV filters

Works for

Sun protection
SPF 45 · 5 UV filters
Broad spectrum
SPF 45Broad spectrumMineral + chemical filtersNo white castNano filters

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Homosalate
Octinoxate
Octisalate
Zinc Oxide
Avobenzone
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
HomosalateUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation~7–8.6%
OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~5.2–6.3%
OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~4–4.8%
Zinc Oxide Mineral UVBUVA Photo-stable A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant~3.8–4.6%
AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~2.3–2.8%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Anti-aging
Magnesium aluminum silicate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The Invisible Zinc is absorbed quickly and the Vitamins B5 & E anti-oxidant enriched formula helps protect skin and repair environmental skin damage.”
Source: N/A

This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

Magnesium aluminum silicateEffect: LowMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation~0.5–0.75%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.9–1.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Works well
What the product description says
“NO SULFATES, SLS, SOAP, PERFUME, MI, ALCOHOL, COLOURS & MORE Sun protection factor SPF45 to protect skin every day from signs of UV exposure such as dark spots, roughness and loss of elasticity.”
Source: N/A

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Moisturizing
Side benefit the brand mentions · Glycerin, Dicaprylyl carbonate + 3 more
Works
What the product description says
“Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108 contains a unique combination of oil-free emollients to hydrate the skin, together with high UVA & UVB protection.”
Source: N/A

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.8%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.5–1.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.3–1.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~5.2–6.3%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.95%est.
HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~7–8.6%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~2.3–2.8%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.9–1.1%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Homosalate~7–8.6%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~5.2–6.3%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl salicylate~4–4.8%
UV filter
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
Zinc oxide~3.8–4.6%
UV filterKey active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide
Glycerin~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pentaerythrityl distearate~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.3–2.8%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.5–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Glyceryl stearate~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.9–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Benzyl alcohol~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Phenoxyethanol~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Magnesium aluminum silicate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopherol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Bisabolol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Panthenol~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Corn starch modified~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product formulation

More about Corn starch modified
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Beta-carotene~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Ingredient list view

Water, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Zinc oxide, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Glyceryl stearate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Benzyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum, Bisabolol, Disodium edta, Panthenol, Citric acid, Bht, Corn starch modified, Sodium citrate, Beta-carotene

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Gardiner Family ApothecaryElave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108YOUR PRODUCTLa Roche-PosayAnthelios UV Hydra Hydrating Face Sunscreen with SPF 50 with Hyaluronic AcidPeter Thomas RothMax Vitamin D-Fense Sunscreen Serum Broad Spectrum SPF 50DCLSkincare Super Sheer SPF50 Broad Spectrum Protection Sunscreen
Match—44%43%43%
Price—$39.99$42.00$61.57
Shared key ingredients—5 of 94 of 95 of 9
Key difference—Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideFructooligosaccharidesTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
SPFSPF 45SPF 50SPF 50SPF 50
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, we believe that "Gardiner Family Apothecary - Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No. 108" can offer reliable sun protection. We love that it can protect from both UVA and UVB rays (not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

It should also be hydrating enough to use without an additional moisturizer during the day. This product prevents early signs of aging by protecting against sun damage (all broad spectrum sunscreens do that).

Sunscreen filters

This sunscreen uses a mixture of both mineral and organic (so-called "chemical") UV filters. Here are the organic filters this product uses: avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate and homosalate. As for the mineral filters, this sunscreen uses zinc oxide.

Irritation risk

This sunscreen contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this sunscreen to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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Gardiner Family Apothecary Elave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108
Gardiner Family ApothecaryElave Daily Skin Defence SPF45 No.108

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.