Functionalab Glycolic Acid 10% Night Cream

Functionalab Glycolic Acid 10% Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Anti-aging
Glycolic acid, Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester + 1 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Used regularly, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, smooths skin texture, and boosts radiance.”
Source: Functionalab

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.2–7.9%
Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Allantoin
Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.2–7.9%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.75%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.2–7.9%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, Squalane + 11 more
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–1.1%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.85–1.25%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.8–5.8%
Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.8%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.5–2.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.2–3.4%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~1.3–1.9%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.2%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.75%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~5.2–7.9%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1.3–1.9%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.8–5.8%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–1%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.8%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.8–2.7%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.2–3.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycolic acid~5.2–7.9%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.8–5.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~2.2–3.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Sodium hydroxide~2.1–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.8–2.7%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Glycerin~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propylene glycol~1.3–1.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Dimethicone~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Arginine~0.85–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Butylene glycol~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Squalane~0.45–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester~0.35–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Bisabolol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Allantoin~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Steareth-2~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2
Steareth-21~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Laureth-3~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Laureth-3
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Dicetyl phosphate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Dicetyl phosphate
Ceteth-10 phosphate~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-10 phosphate
Dehydroacetic acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Disodium edta~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
( extracts mix), ph 3.6
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycolic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium hydroxide, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Dimethicone, Arginine, Butylene glycol, Squalane, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, Tocopheryl acetate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Sodium hyaluronate, Steareth-2, Steareth-21, Xanthan gum, Laureth-3, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dicetyl phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, Dehydroacetic acid, Disodium edta, Parfum, Unknown

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Functionalab
$98.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
FunctionalabGlycolic Acid 10% Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTUltraceuticalsUltra Calming Moisturiser CreamAlpha-HLiquid Gold 24 Hour Moisture Repair Cream
Match—51%50%
Price$98.00$206.62+$108.62$51.00−$47.00
Shared key ingredients—6 of 117 of 11
Key difference—NiacinamideLactic Acid
Irritancy Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol———
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Functionalab - Glycolic Acid 10% Night Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Functionalab - Glycolic Acid 10% Night Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (arginine, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol and propylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Exfoliating acids (glycolic acid 5.20% - 7.90%). In this concentration, they will have a noticeable exfoliating effect. They can also have an anti-aging effect and stimulate collagen production in a long-run.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0.35% - 0.80%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: allantoin

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 98.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Functionalab Glycolic Acid 10% Night Cream
FunctionalabGlycolic Acid 10% Night Cream

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