Fresh

Fresh Vitamin C Glow Face Mask

Name: Fresh - Vitamin C Glow Face Mask
Brand: Fresh

Efficacy0/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation

Copper gluconate, Zinc gluconate

Not delivered

What the product description says

“This fruit blend comes in the form of a paste, which is made from lemons cultivated in the Mediterranean region—providing double exfoliation by offering a pleasant scrub, while the AHA fruit acid content offers a chemical peeling effect.”

Source: Sephora

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.15–0.25%

Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate ~0.4–0.6%, below the ~5% it needs

Under-dosed

What the product description says

“- Uneven skin tone”

Source: Sephora

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.4–0.6%

Moisturizing

Side benefit the brand mentions · Panthenol, Glucose + 11 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Concentrated citrus fruit paste.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: fructose, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycine soja oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.4%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~5.3–6.5%

FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.7–2%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~1.3–1.6%

Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.5–0.75%

Magnesium aspartateKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.3%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.4–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.15–0.25%

Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

6 strong irritants: Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus clementina fruit extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~4.3–5.3%est.

Citrus clementina fruit extract—High~3.1–3.8%est.

Citrus sinensis fruit extract—High~2.2–2.7%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Ci 75120An orange dyeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.9–1.1%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.

Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.65%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.4–0.6%est.

Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.5–0.75%est.

Alternatives

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Higher efficacy · 100/10056% match

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Higher efficacy · 25/10056% match

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glucose~5.3–6.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Citrus limon fruit extract~4.3–5.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract

Citrus clementina fruit extract~3.1–3.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus clementina fruit extract

Citrus sinensis fruit extract~2.2–2.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus sinensis fruit extract

Fructose~1.9–2.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose

Glycerin~1.7–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Sucrose~1.3–1.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Citrus limon fruit extract~1.1–1.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.9–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract

Pyrus cydonia seed extract~0.65–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pyrus cydonia seed extract

Saccharum officinarum extract~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract

Glycine soja oil~0.5–0.75%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract

Acer saccharum extract~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.4–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum

Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta

Sodium citrate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Parfum~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Panthenol~0.25–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Caramel~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Caramel

Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite

Citric acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Magnesium aspartate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin

More about Magnesium aspartate

Zinc gluconate~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate

Copper gluconate~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Ci 75120~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An orange dye

More about Ci 75120

Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Limonene~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Ingredient list view

Water, Glucose, Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus clementina fruit extract, Citrus sinensis fruit extract, Fructose, Glycerin, Sucrose, Citrus limon fruit extract, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Pyrus cydonia seed extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Glycine soja oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Acer saccharum extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum, Butylene glycol, Sclerotium gum, Tetrasodium edta, Sodium citrate, Parfum, Panthenol, Caramel, Sodium metabisulfite, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Magnesium aspartate, Zinc gluconate, Copper gluconate, Ci 75120, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	FreshVitamin C Glow Face MaskYOUR PRODUCT	PCA SKINHydrating Mask	CODAGEPurifying Mask	BaleaFace Mask Milk Honey
Match	—	56%	56%	56%
Price	—	$72.00	—	$0.80
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 10	5 of 10	3 of 10
Key difference	—	Oatmeal Extract	Salicylic Acid	Sunflower Seed Oil
Irritancy	High	Medium	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

1
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damagesciencedirect.com
5
Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
7
Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and managementijdvl.com
8
Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
9
Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
10
A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative propertiessciencedirect.com
11
New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interactionmorressier.com
12
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
14
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
15
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
16
Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfitencbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Magnesium ions inhibit the antigen-presenting function of human epidermal Langerhans cells in vivo and in vitro. Involvement of ATPase, HLA-DR, B7 molecules, and cytokinesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disordersoatext.com
20
Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrinsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov

FreshVitamin C Glow Face Mask

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.