PRODUCT REVIEW
Facetheory Chiromasque Renewing Hand Mask H3
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
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Can it cause trouble?
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What can the product work for?
Works for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Active ingredients Granactive Retinoid®, vitamin E and urea and anti-radical Micah® technology soothe and rehydrate skin while encouraging cell renewal, boosting collagen production and helping defend against environmental damage.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
niacinamide
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
The actives in our leave-on hand mask work together perfectly to rehydrate and refresh stressed skin.
sucrose
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
ricinus communis seed oil
2.6% -
3.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
oryza sativa bran oil
0.6% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
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Evens skin tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
hydroquinone
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-pigmentation active. It can have serious side-effects though and ideally is used under supervision of a doctor. It should not be used over a long period of time (over a year).
niacinamide
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Show more
Anti-oxidation
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
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Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera oil
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
glyceryl stearate se
1.2% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
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User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
lactic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
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Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cocos nucifera oil
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
glyceryl stearate se
1.2% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
Show more
All ingredients
glycerin
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
urea
3.9% -
4.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
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Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Urea, Aleurites moluccanus seed oil, Ricinus communis seed oil, Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate, Cetyl alcohol, Cocos nucifera oil, Unknown, Glyceryl stearate se, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, Stearic acid, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Niacinamide, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sucrose, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Lactic acid, Bis(cyano butylacetate) anthracenediylidene, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sodium anisate, Sodium levulinate, Glyceryl caprylate, Raspberry seed oil/tocopheryl succinate aminopropanediol esters, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan gum, Benzalkonium chloride, Benzophenone, Benzophenone-6, Phenol, Butoxyethanol, Bht, Carbomer, Coal tar, Ethanolamine, Formaldehyde, Hydroquinone, Paraffinum liquidum, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Paraffinum liquidum, Benzophenone-3, Paraffinum liquidum, Phenoxyethanol, Polyethylene, Glycol, Resorcinol, Sodium nitrite, Thimerosal, Triclosan, Triclocarban
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate
- Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production
- Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation
- Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Value
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil
- Methylisothiazolinone contact allergy: a review
- Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone‐3
- Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients A Randomized Clinical Trial