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EviDenS de Beauté The Night Moisturizer
EviDenS de Beauté

EviDenS de Beauté The Night Moisturizer

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Aspartic acid, Serine + 3 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“diminishing signs of aging”
Source: EviDenS de Beauté

This product contains aspartic acid, serine, threonine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Moisturizing
Ubiquinone, Arginine + 21 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“hydrate, protect and revitalize the skin”
Source: EviDenS de Beauté

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.4%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.5%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.35–0.6%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.35–0.65%
Soluble collagenKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.1–5%
ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.4%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.2–0.35%
Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.2–0.4%
PcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.45%
Octyldodecyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.2–2.7%
ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.9–2.4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~5.4–6.6%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.3–1.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Ubiquinone, Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Parfum, Alcohol + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.2–2.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~5.4–6.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Squalane~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Octyldodecyl myristate~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Octyldodecyl myristate
Cetearyl alcohol~2.2–2.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Stearic acid~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
1,2-hexanediol~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Glyceryl stearate~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Dimethicone~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polysorbate 20~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 60~0.6–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Microcrystalline wax~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax
Peg-100 stearate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Parfum~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Alcohol~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Sodium pca~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sodium lactate~0.35–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Arginine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Aspartic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Pca~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Pca
Glycine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Alanine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Serine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Valine~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Valine
Ubiquinone~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen
Threonine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine
Proline~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Proline
Isoleucine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Morus alba root extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Morus alba root extract
Phenylalanine~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phenylalanine
Histidine~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Histidine
Soluble collagen~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Soluble collagen
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Bht~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Hexyl cinnamal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Citronellol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Squalane, Octyldodecyl myristate, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Microcrystalline wax, Peg-100 stearate, Parfum, Alcohol, Sodium pca, Sodium lactate, Sodium hydroxide, Arginine, Tetrasodium edta, Aspartic acid, Pca, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Ubiquinone, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Hydrolyzed collagen, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Phenoxyethanol, Morus alba root extract, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Soluble collagen, Citric acid, Bht, Benzyl benzoate, Linalool, Hexyl cinnamal, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Citronellol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
EviDenS de Beauté The Night Moisturizer
EviDenS de BeautéThe Night Moisturizer
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