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Etude House Revitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel
Etude House

Etude House Revitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel

Efficacy85/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

4 of 5 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Glycolic acid, Ascorbyl glucoside
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Glucoside): Help brighten skin tone and minimize fine lines as it defends against free radical damage.”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.4%
Exfoliation
Glycolic acid, Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Glycolic Acid: Improves the skin’s appearance and texture by accelerating the exfoliation process of the upper layer of the epidermis.”
Source: Beautylish

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~1.6–2%
Evens skin tone
Glycolic acid, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + 3 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“boscia Revitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel minimizes the appearance of pores, refines skin texture, and brightens skin with an ultra-cool, ultra-light gel moisturizer formulated with Black Charcoal and Vitamin C.”
Source: Ulta

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~1.6–2%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.4%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%
Moisturizing
Sodium hyaluronate, Dimethicone + 10 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“boscia Revitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel minimizes the appearance of pores, refines skin texture, and brightens skin with an ultra-cool, ultra-light gel moisturizer formulated with Black Charcoal and Vitamin C.”
Source: Ulta

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactobacillus ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~4.2–5.1%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.45–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5–6.1%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~1.4–1.7%
Peg-10 dimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~0.65–0.95%
Simmondsia chinensis seed extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighPlant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.2–1.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2–2.4%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Glycolic acid
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“Pomegranate Enzyme: A superior antioxidant that provides excellent free radical protection, while exfoliation properties reduce blackheads and even texture.”
Source: Beautylish

This product contains ingredients (glycolic acid) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Lactobacillus ferment + 5 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~1.4–1.7%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.25–0.45%
Cynara scolymus leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Menthyl lactate, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantHigh~1.6–2%est.
Menthyl lactateUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.95–1.2%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus paradisi seed extract—High~0.15–0.25%est.
Cynara scolymus leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.5%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Oleth-10Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~5–6.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dimethicone~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Butylene glycol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycereth-26~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
Isononyl isononanoate~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract~1.6–2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin tone

An enzyme-based exfoliant

More about Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract
Lactobacillus ferment~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Cyclopentasiloxane~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Menthyl lactate~0.95–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthyl lactate
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Peg-10 dimethicone~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss

More about Peg-10 dimethicone
Carbomer~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Caprylyl glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Sodium polyacrylate~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Potassium hydroxide~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Dimethiconol~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Charcoal powder~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Benefits for the skin are not clear

More about Charcoal powder
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Simmondsia chinensis seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed extract
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Ceteth-25~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-25
Silica~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Oleth-10~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Oleth-10
Citrus paradisi seed extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus paradisi seed extract
Cynara scolymus leaf extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating

More about Cynara scolymus leaf extract
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Titanium dioxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Mica~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Iron oxides~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Glycereth-26, Isononyl isononanoate, Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract, Lactobacillus ferment, Cyclopentasiloxane, Menthyl lactate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Peg-10 dimethicone, Carbomer, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium polyacrylate, Potassium hydroxide, Dimethiconol, Glycolic acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Charcoal powder, Sodium hyaluronate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Simmondsia chinensis seed extract, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Ascorbyl glucoside, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Ceteth-25, Silica, Oleth-10, Citrus paradisi seed extract, Cynara scolymus leaf extract, Xanthan gum, Titanium dioxide, Mica, Iron oxides

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Etude HouseRevitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration GelYOUR PRODUCTCliniqueiD™: Moisturizer + Concentrate for Pores & Uneven TextureLOUMBalance & Prime Gel MoisturiserJack BlackOvernight Repair Moisturizer
Match—56%56%55%
Price—$50.00$40.98$72.07
Shared key ingredients—6 of 143 of 144 of 14
Key difference—Lactic AcidSalicylic AcidLactic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Glycerin Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  5. 5
    The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoagingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face studyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Etude House Revitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel
Etude HouseRevitalizing Black Charcoal Hydration Gel
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