ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask

ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol + 20 more
Works
What the product description says
“Tri-Active™ Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask”
From product name

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, polyglutamic acid.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.3%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.6–4.4%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~2.7–3.3%
Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~2.3–2.9%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~1.9–2.3%
C10-18 triglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture~1.6–2%
TriheptanoinKey activeEffect: HighA synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Polyglutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.~0.2–0.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.2–0.4%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~1.4–1.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.2%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.6%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.2–0.35%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.6–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.65%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Alaria esculenta extract, Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“The mask’s nourishing, hydrating properties get to work immediately to soften and even the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Parfum, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantifolia fruit extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Cinnamic acid—High~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosa damascena flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~2.3–2.9%est.
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 estersHelp oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.6–4.4%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~2.7–3.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~3.6–4.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate se~2.7–3.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Coco-caprylate~2.3–2.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Coco-caprylate/caprate~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
C10-18 triglycerides~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture

More about C10-18 triglycerides
Octyldodecanol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Help oil and water mix together

More about Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters
Glyceryl stearate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Triheptanoin~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triheptanoin
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.6–0.85%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Sodium stearoyl lactylate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate
C9-12 alkane~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about C9-12 alkane
Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Parfum~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Levulinic acid~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Cyathea cumingii leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
P-anisic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Sodium gluconate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Sodium levulinate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Bidens pilosa extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Ectoin~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Polyglutamic acid~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.

More about Polyglutamic acid
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Citronellol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Geraniol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract
Castor oil/ipdi copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Castor oil/ipdi copolymer
Alaria esculenta extract~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Limonene~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Cinnamic acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cinnamic acid
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Linalool~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Collagen amino acids~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Rosa damascena flower extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower extract
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Coco-caprylate, Coco-caprylate/caprate, C10-18 triglycerides, Octyldodecanol, Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters, Glyceryl stearate, Triheptanoin, Rosa canina fruit oil, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, C9-12 alkane, Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer, Parfum, Xanthan gum, Levulinic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl caprylate, Cyathea cumingii leaf extract, P-anisic acid, Sodium gluconate, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Sodium levulinate, Elaeis guineensis oil, Bidens pilosa extract, Ectoin, Polyglutamic acid, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Citronellol, Sodium hyaluronate, Geraniol, Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract, Castor oil/ipdi copolymer, Alaria esculenta extract, Limonene, Cinnamic acid, Potassium sorbate, Linalool, Citral, Collagen amino acids, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Tocopherol, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Rosa damascena flower extract, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide

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Espa
$81.90
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping MaskYOUR PRODUCTEvolveIntense Hydrating Mask Maque HydratantTIRTIRCollagen Core Glow MaskBaleaBeauty Effect Power Mask
Match—39%38%38%
Price$81.90$34.00−$47.90——
Shared key ingredients—3 of 84 of 83 of 8
Key difference—Glyceryl GlucosideNiacinamideButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"ESPA - Tri-Active™ Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask" could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (sodium hyaluronate 0.20% - 0.40%, polyglutamic acid 0.20% - 0.40% and glycerin 4.40% - 5.30%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 81.90$ in the United States and for 39.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Sodium anisateecha.europa.eu
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Phyto-Collagen Plumping Mask

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