ESPA Tri-Active Resilience ProBiome Eye Cream

Tri-Active Resilience ProBiome Eye Cream

Efficacy 62/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
13 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalene.

ANHYDROXYLITOLRole: HeroHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.35–0.6%
LACTIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.95–1.15%
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL UNSAPONIFIABLESRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~3.2–3.9%
JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.25–0.5%
TREHALOSERole: Key activeA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
XYLITYLGLUCOSIDERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.45–0.7%
SACCHARIDE ISOMERATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
SQUALENERole: Key activeAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.3–0.55%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATERole: Key activeConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~4.4–5.4%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.2–1.5%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Partial evidence

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient bifida ferment lysate might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

LACTIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.25%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Irritancy
34 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 34 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Polianthes tuberosa callus extractHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinLow~6–7.3%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinLow~1.4–1.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-2 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.65–0.95%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicLow~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Low~0.25–0.5%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Paeonia lactiflora root extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Low~0.25–0.45%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.25–0.45%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationLow~0.2–0.4%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationLow~0.2–0.4%est.
Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
8 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin
High risk
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.High~0.25–0.45%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the momentHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extractHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMed~6–7.3%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeastMed~0.3–0.55%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Coconut alkanes~6–7.3%
Key activeComedo · mediumLow-irritation
Bifida ferment lysate~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Propanediol~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Maris aqua~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Sea water~1.7–2%
Formula
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.4–1.7%
Low-irritation
Glycerin~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Polyglyceryl-2 stearate~0.65–0.95%
Low-irritation
Cetyl stearate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Xylitylglucoside~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Anhydroxylitol~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Cetyl alcohol~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedo · high
Bentonite~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Isostearyl isostearate~0.2–0.4%
Comedo · highLow-irritation
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Jojoba esters~0.25–0.5%
Key activeLow-irritation
Bidens pilosa extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Sclerotium gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Xylitol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Polianthes tuberosa callus extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Olive oil decyl esters~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Dehydroacetic acid~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Glucose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Linalool~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Hydrated silica~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Plankton extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedo · highLow-irritation
Paeonia lactiflora root extract~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Limonene~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Trehalose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Stearic acid~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Laminaria digitata extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedComedo · high
Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedo · high
Geraniol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Squalene~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedo · medium
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedo · highLow-irritation
Farnesol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Sorbitol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Lecithin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Citronellol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Saccharide isomerate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Parfum~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Maris sal~0.2–0.4%
Low-irritation
Sea salt~0.2–0.4%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl linoleate~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl linolenate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Low-irritation
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Disodium edta~0.15–0.25%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high

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