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ESPA Tri Active Regenerating Eye Complex
ESPA

ESPA Tri Active Regenerating Eye Complex

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Coconut alkanes, Theobroma cacao seed butter + 19 more
Works
What the product description says
“Marine Actives provide maximum hydration, fortified by the sea's rich nutrients”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactobacillus ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: theobroma cacao seed butter, coco-caprylate/caprate.

Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~3.4–4.1%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.5–3.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–2.6%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~1.5–1.9%
TriheptanoinKey activeEffect: HighA synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~1–1.2%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%
Lactobacillus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumA "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking~0.5–0.75%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.55%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~5.2–6.3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.8–2.1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.3–0.5%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.15–0.3%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-aging
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Clinically proven to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles in just 14 days*”
Source: Espa UK

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - camellia sinensis leaf extract - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient camellia sinensis leaf extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“A trio of bio-retinols supports the appearance of a more even-looking tone, while velvet horn seaweed helps replenish lost moisture, promoting boosted hydration and improved visible elasticity.”
Source: Lookfantastic

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Theobroma cacao seed butter + 4 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–0.8%
Theobroma cacao seed butterEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.5–3.1%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.55%
CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.3–0.6%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Parfum, Rosa damascena flower oil + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~3.4–4.1%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.8–2.1%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~2.5–3.1%est.
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~1–1.2%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~3.4–4.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sorbitan stearate~7.4–9.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Dicaprylyl carbonate~5.2–6.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Coconut alkanes~3.4–4.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Theobroma cacao seed butter~2.5–3.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Glycerin~2.1–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pentylene glycol~1.8–2.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Coco-caprylate/caprate~1.5–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Triheptanoin~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

A synthetic triglyceride. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triheptanoin
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~1–1.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Microcrystalline cellulose~0.95–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Exfoliation
More about Microcrystalline cellulose
Sucrose cocoate~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose cocoate
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Butylene glycol~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Lactobacillus ferment lysate~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Lactobacillus ferment lysate
Punica granatum bark extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Punica granatum bark extract
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Levulinic acid~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Bidens pilosa extract~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate
Maltodextrin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
C9-12 alkane~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about C9-12 alkane
Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Vigna aconitifolia seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vigna aconitifolia seed extract
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sodium gluconate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium levulinate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Cellulose gum~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Citric acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Lactobacillus ferment~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract
Caffeine~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Parfum~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Collagen amino acids~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids
Codium tomentosum extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Codium tomentosum extract
Castor oil/ipdi copolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Castor oil/ipdi copolymer
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Rosa damascena flower water~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Sorbitan stearate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Coconut alkanes, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Triheptanoin, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Microcrystalline cellulose, Sucrose cocoate, Elaeis guineensis oil, Butylene glycol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Punica granatum bark extract, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Levulinic acid, Bidens pilosa extract, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Maltodextrin, C9-12 alkane, Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, Sodium benzoate, Sodium gluconate, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Sodium levulinate, Cellulose gum, Citric acid, Lactobacillus ferment, Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract, Caffeine, Sodium dehydroacetate, Parfum, Collagen amino acids, Codium tomentosum extract, Castor oil/ipdi copolymer, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa damascena flower water, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Moringa oleifera seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri Active Regenerating Eye ComplexYOUR PRODUCTTulaInstant De-Puff Eye Renewal SerumEstée LauderAdvanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix - Synchronized RecoveryMuradVita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector
Match—34%33%33%
Price—$54.03$66.92$70.73
Shared key ingredients—3 of 94 of 94 of 9
Key difference—Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Aminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphateVitamin C
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Genetic Architecture of Palm Oil Fatty Acid Composition in Cultivated Oil Palm (Elaeis guineensis Jacq.) Compared to Its Wild Relative E. oleifera (H.B.K) Cortésjournals.plos.org
  5. 5
    Nutrient composition of Nigerian palm kernel from the dura and tenera varieties of the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis)sciencedirect.com
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
ESPA Tri Active Regenerating Eye Complex
ESPATri Active Regenerating Eye Complex
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.