ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Bio-Retinol Sleeping Serum

ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Bio-Retinol Sleeping Serum

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed + 14 more
Works
What the product description says
“Delivering all the smoothing, plumping benefits thanks to three (yes, three!) forms of retinol joining forces, the Tri-Active Regenerating Bio Retinol Sleeping Serum works hard to rejuvenate and recover skin while you snooze.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.3%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.1–5%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~3.1–3.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.9–2.4%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.45–0.65%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.5%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.25–0.45%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~1.2–1.4%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Skin appears rejuvenated and even-toned -- with a glass-like finish to the complexion.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-aging
Tocopherol
Not delivered
What the product description says
“This potent formula softens visible fine lines and wrinkles, creating a smooth and luminous visage.”
Source: Espa

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~3.1–3.8%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.9–2.4%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.95–1.2%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.45–0.65%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.25–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.3–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Rosa canina fruit oil~3.1–3.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Glyceryl stearate citrate~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.9–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glyceryl caprylate~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.95–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
P-anisic acid~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Levulinic acid~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.45–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Limonene~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Acacia senegal gum~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Vigna aconitifolia seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Bidens pilosa extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium levulinate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Linalool~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Phytic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sucrose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Plankton extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Amyris balsamifera bark oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Santalum album oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Cryptomeria japonica bud extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Codium tomentosum extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Lecithin~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Rosa canina fruit oil, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl caprylate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydrogenated lecithin, P-anisic acid, Levulinic acid, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Limonene, Elaeis guineensis oil, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Acacia senegal gum, Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, Xanthan gum, Bidens pilosa extract, Maltodextrin, Parfum, Sodium levulinate, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Linalool, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Phytic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Sucrose, Plankton extract, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Santalum album oil, Geraniol, Cryptomeria japonica bud extract, Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract, Codium tomentosum extract, Lecithin, Citric acid

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Dermstore30 ml
$86.45 Out of stock
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Espa
$178.00
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Amazon US
Price unavailable Out of stock
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Bio-Retinol Sleeping SerumYOUR PRODUCTCeraVeSkin Renewing Retinol SerumCetaphilDeep Hydration 48 Hour Activation SerumVT CosmeticsPDRN Reedle Shot 100
Match—36%36%35%
Price$178.00$20.44−$157.56$26.82−$151.18$17.96−$160.04
Shared key ingredients—4 of 83 of 85 of 8
Key difference—NiacinamideAnhydroxylitolNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
    Sodium anisateecha.europa.eu
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Bio-Retinol Sleeping Serum
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Bio-Retinol Sleeping Serum

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.