ESPA

ESPA Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Moisturiser

Name: ESPA - Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Moisturiser
Brand: ESPA

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Coconut alkanes, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil + 29 more

Works

What the product description says

“This lightweight yet deeply nourishing moisturiser helps to protect and hydrate the skin while restoring softness and comfort.”

Source: Espa

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, calcium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~5.9–7.2%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~4.3–5.2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%

Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.9–2.3%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.4–1.8%

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.6–0.85%

AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.3–0.55%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.6%

Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.25–0.45%

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Glyceryl linolenateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%

Calcium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%

Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.6–1.9%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.65%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.2–0.35%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.3%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.55%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.2–0.4%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Bifida ferment lysate, Chlorella vulgaris extract + 8 more

May help

This product contains antioxidants (bifida ferment lysate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%

Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.15–0.25%

Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Paeonia lactiflora root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.3%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.35%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.35%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.25%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

22 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 20 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 46 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.15–0.3%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~5.9–7.2%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~4.3–5.2%est.

Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.6–1.9%est.

Polyglyceryl-2 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.3%est.

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Paeonia lactiflora root extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

5 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~5.9–7.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Coconut alkanes~5.9–7.2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~4.3–5.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Glycerin~3–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Bifida ferment lysate~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~1.9–2.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.6–1.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.4–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Polyglyceryl-2 stearate~1.1–1.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-2 stearate

Cetyl stearate~0.8–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cetyl stearate

Xylitylglucoside~0.6–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside

Pectin~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pectin

Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Anhydroxylitol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol

Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Limonene~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate

Isostearyl isostearate~0.2–0.35%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Jojoba esters~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil

Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Sclerotium gum~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum

Xylitol~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol

Linalool~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax

Maris aqua~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil

Benzoic acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Parfum~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil

Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Glucose~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Calcium pca~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Calcium pca

Geraniol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Plankton extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract

Paeonia lactiflora root extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Paeonia lactiflora root extract

Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract

Farnesol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol

Trehalose~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose

Stearic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Laminaria digitata extract~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Citronellol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Cymbopogon nardus oil

Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract

Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil

Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil

Citral~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Sorbitol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Lecithin~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.2–0.35%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Saccharide isomerate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Glyceryl linoleate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate

Glyceryl linolenate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl linolenate

Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Jasminum sambac flower extract

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Xanthan gum~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Disodium edta~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Ingredient list view

Water, Coconut alkanes, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Bifida ferment lysate, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Cetyl stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Pectin, Glyceryl stearate, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Limonene, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Jojoba esters, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Sclerotium gum, Xylitol, Linalool, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Maris aqua, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Benzoic acid, Parfum, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Dehydroacetic acid, Glucose, Calcium pca, Geraniol, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Cananga odorata flower oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Plankton extract, Paeonia lactiflora root extract, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Farnesol, Trehalose, Stearic acid, Laminaria digitata extract, Citronellol, Lactic acid, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil, Citral, Sorbitol, Tocopherol, Benzyl benzoate, Lecithin, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Saccharide isomerate, Benzyl salicylate, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopheryl acetate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl linolenate, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Retinyl palmitate, Disodium edta, Glyceryl caprylate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	ESPATri-Active Advanced ProBiome MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCT	earthscureNano Peptide Moisturizer + Amino Acids	PlantkosHydrating Moisturizer \| Barrier Protecting Anti-Aging Moisturizer	The OrdinaryRice Lipids + Ectoin Microemulsion Moisturizer for Soothing Hydration & Reduced Redness
Match	—	58%	56%	56%
Price	$106.20	$38.00−$68.20	$82.00−$24.20	$12.77−$93.43
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 16	7 of 16	7 of 16
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Niacinamide	Urea
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 37 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
3
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
4
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
5
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
6
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
7
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
10
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
12
Biological Activities and Safety of Citrus spp. Essential Oilsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
14
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
15
Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
17
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com
18
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu
20
VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )semanticscholar.org
21
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
23
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
24
The skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin: in vitro evaluation using reconstructed pigmented human epidermispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonicancbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
28
Ethnopharmacological Properties and Medicinal Uses of Litsea cubebancbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
31
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
33
Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
34
Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
35
Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
37
Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com

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