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ESPA Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye Cream
ESPA

ESPA Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye Cream

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
30 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Increase hydration levels by 48%, reduced wrinkles by average of 14%”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalene.

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%
Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.1–1.4%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~4.2–5.2%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.15–0.3%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.35%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl linolenateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.5%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.15–0.3%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.6–0.9%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~6.4–7.8%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.15–0.25%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.25%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.1–0.2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.25%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.1–0.15%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.25%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Increase hydration levels by 48%, reduced wrinkles by average of 14%”
Source: Espa UK

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient bifida ferment lysate might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.25%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.2%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 9 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (bifida ferment lysate, squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.2–0.35%
Bifida ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumConsists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect~2.3–2.8%
Paeonia lactiflora root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.25%
Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.25%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.25%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.1–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
8 strong irritants: Polianthes tuberosa extract, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil + 6 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Polianthes tuberosa extract—High~0.15–0.25%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~6.4–7.8%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-2 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Paeonia lactiflora root extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.15–0.25%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05%est.
Comedogenic
9 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
9 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.15–0.25%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~0.15–0.25%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.25%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract—3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Chlorella vulgaris powder—3/5~0.15–0.25%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~6.4–7.8%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.2–0.35%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coconut alkanes~6.4–7.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~4.2–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Propanediol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Bifida ferment lysate~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Consists of remains of dead yeast bacteria cells. Helps to hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. Might has some anti-oxidant effect

More about Bifida ferment lysate
Sea water~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water

More about Sea water
Maris aqua~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Glycerin~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-2 stearate~0.75–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-2 stearate
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Xylitylglucoside~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Cetyl stearate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cetyl stearate
Helianthus annuus flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Helianthus annuus flower extract
Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Anhydroxylitol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Bentonite~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemish

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Bentonite
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.15–0.25%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Isostearyl isostearate~0.15–0.25%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Jojoba esters~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Xylitol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Bidens pilosa extract~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bidens pilosa extract
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Sclerotium gum~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Polianthes tuberosa extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Polianthes tuberosa extract
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Benzoic acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Olive oil decyl esters~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Olive oil decyl esters
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citric acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Hydrated silica~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying
More about Hydrated silica
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Plankton extract~0.15–0.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Paeonia lactiflora root extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Paeonia lactiflora root extract
Lactic acid~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Stearic acid~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Trehalose~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract~0.15–0.3%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract
Squalene~0.2–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sorbitol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Acetic acid~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acetic acid
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Geraniol~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Lecithin~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Chlorella vulgaris powder~0.15–0.25%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Chlorella vulgaris powder
Saccharide isomerate~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Farnesol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Glucose~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sea salt~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Maris sal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Glyceryl linoleate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate
Glyceryl linolenate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl linolenate
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.1–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Disodium edta~0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Glyceryl caprylate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Ingredient list view

Water, Coconut alkanes, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Propanediol, Bifida ferment lysate, Sea water, Maris aqua, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Xylitylglucoside, Cetyl stearate, Helianthus annuus flower extract, Glyceryl stearate, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Elaeis guineensis oil, Bentonite, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Jojoba esters, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Xylitol, Bidens pilosa extract, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Sclerotium gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Polianthes tuberosa extract, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Benzoic acid, Olive oil decyl esters, Dehydroacetic acid, Linalool, Citric acid, Hydrated silica, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Plankton extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene, Paeonia lactiflora root extract, Lactic acid, Stearic acid, Trehalose, Laminaria digitata extract, Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract, Squalene, Sodium benzoate, Sorbitol, Acetic acid, Tocopherol, Geraniol, Lecithin, Chlorella vulgaris powder, Saccharide isomerate, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Farnesol, Glucose, Tocopheryl acetate, Sea salt, Maris sal, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl linolenate, Retinyl palmitate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium edta, Glyceryl caprylate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPATri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye CreamYOUR PRODUCTMALIN + GOETZRevitalizing Eye CreamNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICV.Biome Advanced Eye CreamEve LomRadiance Antioxidant Eye Cream
Match—58%56%56%
Price$85.93$72.00−$13.93$25.16−$60.77$45.00−$40.93
Shared key ingredients—7 of 135 of 134 of 13
Key difference—Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl HydroxythreonineCopper Tripeptide-1Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Bifidobacterium longumlysate, a new ingredient forreactive skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  2. 2
    Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Genetic Architecture of Palm Oil Fatty Acid Composition in Cultivated Oil Palm (Elaeis guineensis Jacq.) Compared to Its Wild Relative E. oleifera (H.B.K) Cortésjournals.plos.org
ESPA Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye Cream
ESPATri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye Cream
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