ESPA Modern Alchemy The Nourishing Balm

ESPA Modern Alchemy The Nourishing Balm

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
14 ingredients credited for this claim
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Modern Alchemy The Nourishing Balm”
Source: Espa

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Plukenetia volubilis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid~1–1.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~23–34%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.2–0.8%
Elaeis guineensis butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of palm oil. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–6.9%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.75%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~1.7–2.5%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~2.3–3.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.4%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~5–7.5%
Shea butter ethyl estersKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4–6%
Brassica campestris seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.7%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (emblica officinalis fruit extract, epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Emblica officinalis fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skin~0.15–0.7%
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~0.15–0.7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilEffect: LowA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.7%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.4%
Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.35–0.8%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~5–7.5%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
24 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 22 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.5–1.2%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Coriandrum sativum seed oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
Zingiber officinale root oilAn essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Ocimum basilicum oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Cinnamal—High~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~23–34%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~2.3–3.5%est.
Emblica officinalis fruit extractA plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skinMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.6–2.4%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.2–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~23–34%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~5–7.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Shea butter ethyl esters~4–6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Shea butter ethyl esters
Water~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~2.3–3.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Sesamum indicum seed oil~1.7–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.6–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Elaeis guineensis butter~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of palm oil. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis butter
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil~1–1.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid

More about Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Limonene~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Maltodextrin~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Quillaja saponaria wood extract~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Octyldodecanol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Parfum~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Carapa guianensis seed oil~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Cocos nucifera oil~0.2–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Brassica campestris seed oil~0.15–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Brassica campestris seed oil
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Saponaria officinalis extract~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Linalool~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Boswellia carterii oil~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Coriandrum sativum seed oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Coriandrum sativum seed oil
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Elettaria cardamomum seed oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Mentha piperita oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Zingiber officinale root oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivity

More about Zingiber officinale root oil
Citral~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Eugenol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Emblica officinalis fruit extract~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might be helping in neutralizing free radicals in skin. It could help reduce hyperpigmentation. There is some research to confirm its effectiveness in skin

More about Emblica officinalis fruit extract
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Curcuma longa root extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Bisabolol~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Pogostemon cablin leaf extract~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Ocimum basilicum oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Ocimum basilicum oil
Piper nigrum fruit oil~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Citric acid~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Geraniol~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Farnesol~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Cinnamal~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cinnamal
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Shea butter ethyl esters, Water, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Elaeis guineensis butter, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Maltodextrin, Quillaja saponaria wood extract, Octyldodecanol, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Parfum, Carapa guianensis seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Brassica campestris seed oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Saponaria officinalis extract, Linalool, Boswellia carterii oil, Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil, Coriandrum sativum seed oil, Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, Elettaria cardamomum seed oil, Mentha piperita oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Zingiber officinale root oil, Citral, Eugenol, Emblica officinalis fruit extract, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Bisabolol, Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, Benzyl benzoate, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Ocimum basilicum oil, Piper nigrum fruit oil, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Citric acid, Benzyl salicylate, Geraniol, Farnesol, Tocopherol, Cinnamal

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Modern Alchemy The Nourishing Balm
ESPAModern Alchemy The Nourishing Balm

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