ESPA

ESPA Skin Rescue Balm

Name: ESPA - Skin Rescue Balm
Brand: ESPA

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

22 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“An intensely nourishing treatment balm to soothe, protect and strengthen dry or sensitive skin.”

Source: Mankind

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: beeswax, cera alba.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~2.3–3.4%

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~3.3–4.9%

Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.5–1.2%

Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~1.3–2%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~4.7–7%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.7%

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%

Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.35–0.75%

Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~25–38%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.4–0.95%

Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.6–5.4%

Crithmum maritimum extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.6%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.7%

Hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: Medium~4.6–7%

Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2.5%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.2–0.75%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.9–1.35%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.1–0.3%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.4–0.95%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.35–0.75%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.8%

Anti-aging

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Weak support

What the product description says

“Naturally Powerful Skin & Body Therapy Signature Blends Active Nutrients Optimal Radiance Aromatherapy Candles ESPA Men Tri-Active™ Resilience Tri-Active™ Regenerating Tri-Active™ Lift & Firm”

Source: Espa UK

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

18 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 16 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.4–0.95%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.15–0.6%est.

Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.15–0.6%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.7%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~25–38%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~4.7–7%est.

Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~3.3–4.9%est.

Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.6–2.5%est.

Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~1.3–2%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~0.35–0.85%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.75%est.

Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.35–0.75%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~0.35–0.85%est.

Crithmum maritimum extractAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.15–0.6%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~4.7–7%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.1–1.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Ricinus communis seed oil~25–38%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil

Glycine soja oil~4.7–7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglycerides~4.6–7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglycerides

Vegetable oil~3.6–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil

Cera alba~3.3–4.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba

Beeswax~2.3–3.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Beeswax

Canola oil~1.6–2.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil

Echium plantagineum seed oil~1.3–2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~1.1–1.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Octyldodecanol~0.9–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Cetyl stearate~0.6–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cetyl stearate

Limonene~0.4–0.95%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Copernicia cerifera wax~0.5–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.35–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.4–0.95%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Cetyl alcohol~0.4–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Isostearyl isostearate~0.35–0.85%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.3–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.35–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil

Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil~0.2–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil

Parfum~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.2–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil

Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Cymbopogon nardus oil

Linalool~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Crithmum maritimum extract~0.15–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum extract

Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil

Stearic acid~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Tocopherol~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Geraniol~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract

Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil

Rosa centifolia flower extract~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower extract

Citral~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Citric acid~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Glyceryl oleate~0.2–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate

Glyceryl stearate~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Lecithin~0.2–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Citronellol~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Parfum~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Ricinus communis seed oil, Glycine soja oil, Hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglycerides, Vegetable oil, Cera alba, Beeswax, Canola oil, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl stearate, Limonene, Copernicia cerifera wax, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetyl alcohol, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Parfum, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Linalool, Crithmum maritimum extract, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Stearic acid, Tocopherol, Geraniol, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Citral, Citric acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Glyceryl oleate, Glyceryl stearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Citronellol, Benzyl benzoate, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Parfum