ESPA Optimal Pro-Cleanser

ESPA Optimal Pro-Cleanser

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Sucrose laurate, Sucrose stearate
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“Optimal Pro-Cleanser”
Source: Espa UK

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Sucrose laurateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent~2.2–3.3%
Sucrose stearateEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together~0.45–1.1%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Use as an effective cleanser, exfoliator or mask to nourish skin and leave you with a bighter more youthful looking complexion.”
Source: Espa UK

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.9–1.3%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~23–34%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~5–7.5%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.4–2.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~1.4–2.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4.6–7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Jojoba esters~5–7.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate~3.8–5.8%
Formula
Water~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sucrose laurate~2.2–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sucrose laurate
Persea gratissima oil~1.7–2.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Coconut alkanes~1.4–2.2%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Limonene~0.9–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil~0.6–1.4%
Formula
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Sucrose stearate~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sucrose stearate
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Parfum~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Linalool~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Moringa pterygosperma seed extract~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Disodium phosphate~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Citric acid~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Jojoba esters, Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate, Water, Sucrose laurate, Persea gratissima oil, Coconut alkanes, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Vaccinium vitis-idaea seed oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Sucrose stearate, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Linalool, Moringa pterygosperma seed extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Disodium phosphate, Citric acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAOptimal Pro-CleanserYOUR PRODUCTLOUMBe Calm Cleansing BalmBIOEFFECTVolcanic ExfoliatorDoréLe Cleanser
Match—38%38%36%
Price—$42.78$56.38$11.50
Shared key ingredients—5 of 75 of 74 of 7
Key difference—CbdAzelaic AcidLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Irritancy High Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Optimal Pro-Cleanser
ESPAOptimal Pro-Cleanser

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