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ESPA Geranium and Petitgrain Hand Balm
ESPA

ESPA Geranium and Petitgrain Hand Balm

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 11 more
Works
What the product description says
“Shea Butter, Jojoba and Sweet Almond Oil work to help hydrate, nourish and revive tired or dry skin, while Geranium and Petitgrain Essential Oils leave hands delicately fragranced and feeling beautifully soft.”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.2–3.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.2%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.4–2%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~1.1–1.7%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.4–1%
Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.55%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.1–3.1%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Limonene + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.55–1.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.45–1%est.
Cymbopogon martini oilAromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritantHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.15–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.8–5.7%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1.4–2%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.8–2.7%est.
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~0.4–1%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.2–3.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.8–5.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~2.2–3.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate citrate~2.1–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.8–2.7%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~1.4–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.4–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Jojoba esters~1.1–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Limonene~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Theobroma cacao seed butter~0.4–1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Cymbopogon martini oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Aromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritant

More about Cymbopogon martini oil
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters
Geraniol~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Tocopherol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Dehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Linalool~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil
Parfum~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Citral~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Farnesol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Citric acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Rosa canina fruit oil, Jojoba esters, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Limonene, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Cymbopogon martini oil, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Geraniol, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Benzoic acid, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic acid, Linalool, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Parfum, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citral, Farnesol, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAGeranium and Petitgrain Hand BalmYOUR PRODUCTPipetteCalming BalmNEOMMoments of Wellbeing in the Palm of Your HandBootsExtracts Vanilla Hand Cream
Match—39%37%37%
Price——$36.37—
Shared key ingredients—5 of 95 of 94 of 9
Key difference—Avena Sativa Kernel FlourLactic AcidDimethicone
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
    4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com
ESPA Geranium and Petitgrain Hand Balm
ESPAGeranium and Petitgrain Hand Balm
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.