ESPA

ESPA 24hr Replenishing Eye Moisturiser

Name: ESPA - 24hr Replenishing Eye Moisturiser
Brand: ESPA

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“A deeply nourishing and hydrating eye cream that supports the skin’s natural moisture barrier, while minimising the appearance of fine lines.”

Source: Mankind

This product contains centella asiatica leaf extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%

Moisturizing

19 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“24hr Replenishing Eye Moisturiser”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium lactate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.9–1.15%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.2–0.4%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.5–0.75%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.6–0.9%

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.1–5.1%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.3–0.55%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.45–0.65%

Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~3.1–3.7%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.9–2.4%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.4–1.7%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.5–0.75%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (ginkgo biloba leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.6–0.9%

Centaurea cyanus flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.65%

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%

Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

10 strong irritants: Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Centaurea cyanus flower extractA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.35–0.65%est.

Aniba rosaeodora wood oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Boswellia carterii gum oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.1–5.1%est.

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3.1–3.7%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.6–2%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~3.1–3.7%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–2.8%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.5–0.75%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.3–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.4–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.1–5.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Isopropyl palmitate~3.1–3.7%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate

Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–2.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Glyceryl stearate~1.9–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Polysorbate 60~1.6–2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Sorbitol~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~1.1–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed

Sodium pca~0.9–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Phenoxyethanol~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Glycine soja oil~0.5–0.75%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Xanthan gum~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Olea europaea fruit oil~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Centaurea cyanus flower extract~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals

More about Centaurea cyanus flower extract

Tocopherol~0.35–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.3–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Oenothera biennis oil~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil

Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract

Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil

Prunus persica kernel oil~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Prunus persica kernel oil

Benzoic acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Sodium lactate~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Dehydroacetic acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid

Aniba rosaeodora wood oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Aniba rosaeodora wood oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil

Linalool~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sorbitan stearate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Parfum~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Boswellia carterii gum oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii gum oil

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Salvia sclarea oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Salvia sclarea oil

Santalum album oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Geraniol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Limonene~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Styrax tonkinensis resin extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Styrax tonkinensis resin extract

Maltodextrin~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Chlorophyllin-copper complex~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Chlorophyllin-copper complex

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isopropyl palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitol, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Sodium pca, Phenoxyethanol, Borago officinalis seed oil, Glycine soja oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Xanthan gum, Olea europaea fruit oil, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Prunus persica kernel oil, Benzoic acid, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sodium lactate, Dehydroacetic acid, Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Linalool, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbitan stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Parfum, Sodium hydroxide, Boswellia carterii gum oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Salvia sclarea oil, Santalum album oil, Benzyl alcohol, Geraniol, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Potassium sorbate, Limonene, Styrax tonkinensis resin extract, Maltodextrin, Chlorophyllin-copper complex