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ESPA 24Hr Replenishing Eye Moi
ESPA

ESPA 24Hr Replenishing Eye Moi

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“A deeply nourishing and hydrating eye cream that supports the skin’s natural moisture barrier, while minimising the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product contains centella asiatica leaf extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%
Moisturizing
19 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“24Hr Replenishing Eye Moi”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium lactate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.7%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.9–1.1%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.35–0.65%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~1.4–1.7%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.5–0.8%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~4.1–5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.4%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.25–0.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.55–0.85%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.1–1.4%
Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~3–3.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.9–2.4%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (ginkgo biloba leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.5–0.8%
Centaurea cyanus flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%
Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Linalool, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Centaurea cyanus flower extractA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Aniba rosodora wood oilA fragrant plant oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3–3.7%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.6–2%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~4.1–5%est.
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~3–3.7%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–2.8%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.7%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.3–0.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.5–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cocos nucifera oil~4.1–5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Isopropyl palmitate~3–3.7%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–2.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Polysorbate 60~1.6–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Sodium pca~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sorbitol~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~0.9–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Phenoxyethanol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium lactate~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Tocopherol~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Oenothera biennis oil~0.35–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract
Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.3–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Prunus persica kernel oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Prunus persica kernel oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate
Benzoic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Centaurea cyanus flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals

More about Centaurea cyanus flower extract
Dehydroacetic acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Linalool~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Aniba rosodora wood oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrant plant oil. Can be irritating

More about Aniba rosodora wood oil
Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil
Sorbitan stearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Boswellia carterii oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Chlorophyllin-copper complex~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Chlorophyllin-copper complex
Salvia sclarea oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Salvia sclarea oil
Styrax benzoin gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Styrax benzoin gum
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sorbic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Maltodextrin~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cocos nucifera oil, Isopropyl palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium pca, Sorbitol, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Phenoxyethanol, Olea europaea fruit oil, Borago officinalis seed oil, Glycine soja oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Xanthan gum, Sodium lactate, Tocopherol, Oenothera biennis oil, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Prunus persica kernel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Benzoic acid, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, Dehydroacetic acid, Linalool, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Sodium hydroxide, Aniba rosodora wood oil, Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil, Sorbitan stearate, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Boswellia carterii oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Chlorophyllin-copper complex, Salvia sclarea oil, Styrax benzoin gum, Citronellol, Geraniol, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Limonene, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Sorbic acid, Maltodextrin

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearatejournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
  5. 5
    Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
ESPA 24Hr Replenishing Eye Moi
ESPA24Hr Replenishing Eye Moi
Buy at Lookfantastic US$11.10Amazon

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Buy at Lookfantastic US$11.10Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.