Esmi Skin Minerals The Uncomplicated Cleanser + Charcoal

Esmi Skin Minerals The Uncomplicated Cleanser + Charcoal

Efficacy50/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Cleansing
Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid + 2 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“The Uncomplicated Cleanser + Charcoal”
Source: Sephora New Zealand

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, lauryl glucoside, stearic acid) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Cetearyl alcoholEffect: HighA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.5–5.2%
Stearic acidEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~2.6–3.9%
Glyceryl stearateEffect: HighAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.45%
Lauryl glucosideEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~0.55–1.25%
Anti-blemish
Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“It also fights breakouts by reducing excess oil and regulating sebum production.”
Source: Sephora New Zealand

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 4 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.3–9.5%est.
Lauryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.5–5.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.3–9.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~3.5–5.2%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Stearic acid~2.6–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Propanediol~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butylene glycol~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycerin~1.2–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glyceryl stearate~1–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Lauryl glucoside~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Lauryl glucoside
Charcoal~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Charcoal
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Propanediol, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate, Lauryl glucoside, Charcoal, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Esmi Skin MineralsThe Uncomplicated Cleanser + CharcoalYOUR PRODUCTendota spaDeep Cleansing CreamJordan SamuelThe Matinee Cream CleanserEve Taylor LondonEve Taylor Ultra Soothing Cleanser
Match—39%36%35%
Price—$35.11$40.00$26.74
Shared key ingredients—5 of 65 of 63 of 6
Key difference—Wheat Germ OilPanthenolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Irritancy Low Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 1 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
Esmi Skin Minerals The Uncomplicated Cleanser + Charcoal
Esmi Skin MineralsThe Uncomplicated Cleanser + Charcoal

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