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Esmi Skin Minerals Anti-Ageing Moisturiser
Esmi Skin Minerals

Esmi Skin Minerals Anti-Ageing Moisturiser

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Anti-Ageing Moisturiser”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, vitis vinifera seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl octapeptide-3

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.8–8.8%
Acetyl octapeptide-3Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.7%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.35–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–3.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.5–5.3%
Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~1.5–2.2%
Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.5%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.15–0.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.05–0.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1–1.45%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.3–1.9%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~2.6–3.9%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.7–2.5%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.1–0.35%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.9%
Anigozanthos flavidus extractEffect: Low, below effective doseClaimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available~0.1–0.35%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Anti-Ageing Moisturiser”
From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains bakuchiol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl octapeptide-3.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.8%
Acetyl octapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Anigozanthos flavidus extractEffect: Low, below effective doseClaimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available~0.1–0.35%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“This cream is enriched with Bakuchiol, a natural retinol alternative that helps increase skins firmness, brighten and improve uneven skin tone for healthy, glowing skin.”
Source: Sephora AU

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: bakuchiol

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.8%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.7%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.1–0.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.75%
Anigozanthos flavidus extractEffect: Low, below effective doseClaimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available~0.1–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Good support

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains bakuchiol.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Anigozanthos flavidus extract
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Anigozanthos flavidus extractClaimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is availableHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Ci 16035A red dyeHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.8–8.8%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Isoamyl laurateHelps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product textureMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.75%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ci 16035A red dye3/5~0.05–0.15%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.5–5.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.8–8.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~3.5–5.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Stearic acid~2.6–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Glycerin~2.1–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hydrogenated polydecene~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Coco-caprylate~1.5–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Glyceryl stearate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Butylene glycol~1–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Isoamyl laurate~0.8–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture

More about Isoamyl laurate
Acetyl octapeptide-3~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl octapeptide-3
Betaine~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Bakuchiol~0.2–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.3–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Trehalose~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.15–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Clitoria ternatea flower extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Clitoria ternatea flower extract
Anigozanthos flavidus extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available

More about Anigozanthos flavidus extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ci 16035~0.05–0.15%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Comedogenicity
3/5

A red dye

More about Ci 16035
Ci 42090~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Glycerin, Hydrogenated polydecene, Coco-caprylate, Glyceryl stearate, Butylene glycol, Isoamyl laurate, Acetyl octapeptide-3, Betaine, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Bakuchiol, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Olea europaea fruit oil, Clitoria ternatea flower extract, Anigozanthos flavidus extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Ci 16035, Ci 42090

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Sephora AU
≈ $55.15
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Esmi Skin MineralsAnti-Ageing MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTBYOMAMoisturising Rich CreamKey SoulcareSKIN TRANSFORMATION CREAM FRAGRANCE FREEMesoesteticAge Element Anti-wrinkle Cream
Match—83%79%78%
Price$104.44$14.99−$89.45$34.00−$70.44$67.09−$37.35
Shared key ingredients—3 of 73 of 73 of 7
Key difference—Ceramide NpNiacinamideAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Product summary

"Esmi Skin Minerals - Anti-Ageing Moisturiser" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Esmi Skin Minerals - Anti-Ageing Moisturiser ticks this box. Acetyl octapeptide-3, betaine, glycerin, trehalose and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Vitis vinifera seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, coco-caprylate and olea europaea fruit oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl octapeptide-3 0.45% - 1.05%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Bakuchiol in this moisturizer (the concentration is about 0.20% - 0.80%). Helps fight photodamage (wrinkles, elasticity loss and pigmentation) and can reduce clogged pores and blemishes. Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from a plant Babchi. It acts similar to retinoids, but with less irritation risk.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 79.00A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 6 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  3. 3
    Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skinresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Esmi Skin Minerals Anti-Ageing Moisturiser
Esmi Skin MineralsAnti-Ageing Moisturiser
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