Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"Esmi Skin Minerals - Anti-Ageing Moisturiser" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Esmi Skin Minerals - Anti-Ageing Moisturiser ticks this box. Acetyl octapeptide-3, betaine, glycerin, trehalose and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Vitis vinifera seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, coco-caprylate and olea europaea fruit oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl octapeptide-3 0.45% - 1.05%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Bakuchiol in this moisturizer (the concentration is about 0.20% - 0.80%). Helps fight photodamage (wrinkles, elasticity loss and pigmentation) and can reduce clogged pores and blemishes. Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from a plant Babchi. It acts similar to retinoids, but with less irritation risk.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 79.00A$ in Australia.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Anti-Ageing Moisturiser
Source: From product name
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains bakuchiol.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl octapeptide-3.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This cream is enriched with Bakuchiol, a natural retinol alternative that helps increase skins firmness, brighten and improve uneven skin tone for healthy, glowing skin.
Source: Sephora AU
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: bakuchiol
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Anti-Ageing Moisturiser
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
betaine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, vitis vinifera seed oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl octapeptide-3
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available
Anti-blemish
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains bakuchiol.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Esmi Skin Minerals Anti-Ageing Moisturiser | Current | $79.00 | |
BYOMA Moisturising Rich Cream | 83% | $13.99 | |
Key Soulcare SKIN TRANSFORMATION CREAM FRAGRANCE FREE | 79% | $34.00 | |
 Mesoestetic Age Element Anti-wrinkle Cream | 78% | $96.50 | |
 REVOLUTION SKINCARE Toning Boost Moisture Cream with Bakuchiol | 78% | $4.00 | |
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Key Actives
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but no evidence is available
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Glycerin, Hydrogenated polydecene, Coco-caprylate, Glyceryl stearate, Butylene glycol, Isoamyl laurate, Acetyl octapeptide-3, Betaine, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Bakuchiol, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Olea europaea fruit oil, Clitoria ternatea flower extract, Anigozanthos flavidus extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Ci 16035, Ci 42090
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmetics
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil