Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Facial Emulsion Enzyme Moisturizer
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
sucrose.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, carthamus tinctorius seed oil.
A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect
An emollient that helps soften the skin
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
provide anti-aging rejuvenation Key Benefits.
Source: Dermstore
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Facial Emulsion Enzyme Moisturizer by Epicuren Discovery banishes blemishes to give you a clearer, smoother-looking complexion free of bumps and shine.
Source: Dermstore
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
A combination of lactic acid, amino acids and MetadermabolicTM enzymes exfoliate, boost elasticity, tone and calm stressed and problematic skin.
Source: Dermstore
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
A combination of lactic acid, amino acids and MetadermabolicTM enzymes exfoliate, boost elasticity, tone and calm stressed and problematic skin.
Source: Dermstore
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 15/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Epicuren Discovery Facial Emulsion Enzyme Moisturizer | Current | $37.00 | |
The INKEY List CA Vitamin B, C and E Moisturizer | 52% | $5.99 | |
 Obagi SUZANOBAGIMD Intensive Daily Repair Moisturiser | 51% | $75.00 | |
 Disco Hydrating Face Moisturizer | 51% | $30.00 | |
 Cosmica Sensitive Balance Face Cream | 51% | $179.90 | |
 SOMD SUZANOBAGIMD IDR Intensive Daily Repair | 51% | $76.00 |
Key Actives
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
An emollient that helps soften the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function
A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
Potential irritants
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Comedogenic ingredients
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
All ingredients
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function
Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect
A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Ingredient list view
Water, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Unknown, Collagen amino acids, Unknown, Elastin amino acids, Biotin, Niacin, Riboflavin, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Citrus grandis seed extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Carbomer, Allantoin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan stearate, Retinyl palmitate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Sucrose, Unknown, Lactic acid, Panthenol, Lecithin, Aminomethyl propanol, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin