Epicuren Defy Age Corrective Facial Oil

Epicuren Defy Age Corrective Facial Oil

Efficacy62/100IrritancyLow
Edit

Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Squalane, Panthenyl triacetate + 10 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“This nutritive blend moisturizes the skin and helps the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Epicuren

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.2–0.75%
Panthenyl triacetateKey activeEffect: HighA stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin~0.5–1.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~22–33%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~4.4–6.6%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.5–8.2%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~2.7–4.1%
NaringeninKey activeEffect: MediumA flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals~0.85–1.3%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.45–1%
Crambe abyssinica seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.7–5.5%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.3–0.75%
Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.15–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%
Anti-aging
Panthenyl triacetate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“This nutritive blend moisturizes the skin and helps the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Epicuren

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - panthenyl triacetate - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient naringenin might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Panthenyl triacetateEffect: LowA stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin~0.5–1.2%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.7–2.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Naringenin, Tocopheryl acetate + 1 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (naringenin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

NaringeninKey activeEffect: MediumA flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals~0.85–1.3%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~1–1.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.7–2.6%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.45–1%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~1.7–2.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~22–33%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.5–8.2%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~4.4–6.6%est.
Crambe abyssinica seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~3.7–5.5%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~1.7–2.6%est.
Swertia chirata extractA plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lackingMedium~1.3–2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1–1.5%est.
NaringeninA flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationMedium~0.45–1%est.
Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~2.7–4.1%est.
Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~0.15–0.55%est.
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Ingredients

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Caprylic/capric triglyceride~22–33%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.5–8.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Persea gratissima oil~4.4–6.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Crambe abyssinica seed oil~3.7–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Crambe abyssinica seed oil
Ethylhexyl palmitate~2.7–4.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~1.7–2.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Swertia chirata extract~1.3–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking

More about Swertia chirata extract
Tocopheryl acetate~1–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Naringenin~0.85–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizing

A flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals

More about Naringenin
Panthenyl triacetate~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Panthenyl triacetate
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

More about Stearyl glycyrrhetinate
Butyloctyl salicylate~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own

More about Butyloctyl salicylate
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Squalane~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Isopropyl palmitate~0.15–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate
Lecithin~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Crambe abyssinica seed oil, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Swertia chirata extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Naringenin, Panthenyl triacetate, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Butyloctyl salicylate, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Isopropyl palmitate, Lecithin

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Epicuren
$101.20
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Epicuren Defy Age Corrective Facial Oil
EpicurenDefy Age Corrective Facial Oil

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.