Emma Lewisham Illuminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration

Emma Lewisham Illuminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Coco-caprylate, Cetearyl alcohol + 12 more
Works
What the product description says
“Illuminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~5.3–7.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.1–4.7%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.9–4.3%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.4–2.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1–1.5%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Salvia hispanica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighChia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier~0.35–0.75%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.9%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.85–1.3%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.95%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.75%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.3–0.75%
Exfoliation
Lactic acid ~0.4–0.95%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Illuminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration”
From product name

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.45–1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Parfum, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~1–1.6%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.45–1%est.
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsHigh~0.45–1%est.
Mentha piperita leaf extractUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Primula veris extract—High~0.4–0.95%est.
Achillea millefolium extractPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Alchemilla vulgaris extractA plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Malva sylvestris extract—High~0.35–0.75%est.
Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~23–34%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~5.3–7.9%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.4–2.1%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.4–0.95%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.1–4.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Water~11–17%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coco-caprylate~5.3–7.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Cetearyl alcohol~3.1–4.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.9–4.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.9–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Hydrogen~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrogen
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.4–2.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Parfum~1–1.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Glycerin~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pentylene glycol~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Kaolin~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingAnti-blemish

A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color

More about Kaolin
Salix alba bark extract~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract
Mentha piperita leaf extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita leaf extract
Lactic acid~0.4–0.95%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Primula veris extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Leontopodium alpinum flower/leaf extract~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Saccharide isomerate~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Achillea millefolium extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract
Alaria esculenta extract~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Alchemilla vulgaris extract~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritating

More about Alchemilla vulgaris extract
Malva sylvestris extract~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Salvia hispanica seed oil~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier

More about Salvia hispanica seed oil
Citrus grandis peel oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil
Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract
Veronica officinalis extract~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Mica~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Iron oxides~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Dehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Iron oxides~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Citral~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citronellol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Farnesol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Water, Coco-caprylate, Cetearyl alcohol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Hydrogen, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Parfum, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Kaolin, Salix alba bark extract, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Mentha piperita leaf extract, Lactic acid, Primula veris extract, Leontopodium alpinum flower/leaf extract, Saccharide isomerate, Achillea millefolium extract, Alaria esculenta extract, Alchemilla vulgaris extract, Malva sylvestris extract, Salvia hispanica seed oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Veronica officinalis extract, Mica, Titanium dioxide, Xanthan gum, Glyceryl caprylate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Iron oxides, Dehydroacetic acid, Iron oxides, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Citral, Citronellol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Emma LewishamIlluminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour HydrationYOUR PRODUCTNaturiumVegan Lactic Acid Emulsion 5%Herbivore BotanicalsMilky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating SerumHerbivoreMilky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating Serum
Match—53%51%51%
Price————
Shared key ingredients—4 of 94 of 94 of 9
Key difference—NiacinamideGluconolactoneGluconolactone
Irritancy High Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

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Emma Lewisham Illuminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration
Emma LewishamIlluminating Exfoliant with AHA/BHA 24 Hour Hydration

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