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Embryolisse Smooth-Active Cream
Embryolisse

Embryolisse Smooth-Active Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyLow
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Tocopherol
May help
What the product description says
“Embryolisse Smooth-Active Cream 40ml is a radiance care with licorice extract, anti-stress, anti-redness, anti-oxidant and anti-pollution, suitable for all skin types, including sensitive.In a single step, it moisturizes, soothes, reduces redness, revives the radiance of the complexion and protects against daily aggressions, thanks to the licorice extract associated with the patagon root with anti-stress and anti-oxidant properties.Its lamellar texture limits the adhesion of pollution particles, the skin is thus protected from the effects of environmental stress.”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product contains glycyrrhetinic acid. This ingredient help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%
Moisturizing
Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycerin + 7 more
Works
What the product description says
“Smooth-Active Cream”
From product name

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, butylene glycol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~2.8–4.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–3.1%
Octyldodecyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.8%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.9–1.35%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~0.2–0.8%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.7–5.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.3–2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%
Glycine soja oilUnder-dosedA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.05–0.2%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Glycyrrhetinic acid, Boerhavia diffusa root extract + 1 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.4–0.95%
Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Glycyrrhetinic acid
May help

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~4.5–6.8%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.7–5.6%est.
Sucrose polystearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.9–1.35%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~4.5–6.8%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.05–0.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Isostearyl isostearate~4.5–6.8%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Pentylene glycol~3.7–5.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Coco-caprylate/caprate~2.8–4.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glycerin~2.1–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sucrose polystearate~1.7–2.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sucrose polystearate
Butylene glycol~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Octyldodecyl myristate~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Octyldodecyl myristate
Triethylhexanoin~0.9–1.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Sodium polyacrylate~0.85–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Citric acid~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Cetyl palmitate~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tocopherol~0.05–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycine soja oil~0.05–0.2%
Under-dosedComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Isostearyl isostearate, Pentylene glycol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycerin, Sucrose polystearate, Butylene glycol, Octyldodecyl myristate, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium polyacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Xanthan gum, Citric acid, Cetyl palmitate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, O-cymen-5-ol, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Glycine soja oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
EmbryolisseSmooth-Active CreamYOUR PRODUCTUBUNARefresh Water Hydration CreamMarcelleHydractive 24H Day & Night Moisturizing Gel Cream - Dry SkinBiodermaPhotoderm After-Sun Soothing Cream
Match—35%34%33%
Price———$16.73
Shared key ingredients—2 of 52 of 52 of 5
Key difference—Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractAnhydroxylitolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Culturesar.iiarjournals.org
Embryolisse Smooth-Active Cream
EmbryolisseSmooth-Active Cream
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.