EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer

EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Anti-aging
Niacinamide, Thioctic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer restores youthfulness while strengthening your skin's natural moisture barrier.”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.4–5.4%
Thioctic acidEffect: Low~0.15–0.3%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 9 more
Works well
What the product description says
“EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer restores youthfulness while strengthening your skin's natural moisture barrier.”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide mea, caesalpinia spinosa gum.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.4–5.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.5%
Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide meaKey active· EmollientEffect: High~0.55–0.85%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Ethylhexyl isononanoate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product consistency~6.1–7.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.9–3.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum· EmollientEffect: LowHelps softent the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.35–0.65%
Caesalpinia spinosa gum· EmollientEffect: Low~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Thioctic acid, Hydrolyzed rice protein + 1 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (thioctic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Thioctic acidKey activeEffect: High~0.15–0.3%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.65%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.4–5.4%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit the brand mentions · Niacinamide
Works well
What the product description says
“Niacinamide blends with antioxidants to boost your skin color and tone, as it speeds up your skin's repair processes.”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.4–5.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium bisulfiteA preservativeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamateA preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.02%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~1.7–2%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gumHelps softent the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Oleth-3 phosphateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caesalpinia spinosa gum—Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Oleth-3 phosphateHelps water and oil mix together3/5~0.35–0.65%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ethylhexyl isononanoate~6.1–7.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product consistency

More about Ethylhexyl isononanoate
Niacinamide~4.4–5.4%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Glyceryl stearate~2.9–3.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~2.5–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Glycerin~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~1.7–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycereth-26~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters
Isomerized safflower acid~0.7–1.1%
Formula
Phenoxyethanol~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide mea~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide mea
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Cetearyl glucoside~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps softent the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum
Oleth-3 phosphate~0.35–0.65%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Oleth-3 phosphate
Oleic acid~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan isostearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Caesalpinia spinosa gum~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Caesalpinia spinosa gum
Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Thioctic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging
More about Thioctic acid
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium bisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative

More about Sodium bisulfite
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate~0.01–0.02%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be irritating

More about Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Butylene glycol, Glycereth-26, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Isomerized safflower acid, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide mea, Xanthan gum, Cetearyl glucoside, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleic acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan isostearate, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Disodium edta, Thioctic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium bisulfite, Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate

Compare prices

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Bluemercury
$51.00
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Amazon USPrice as of 11/12 15:03 GMT
$51.00
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Dermstore1.7 fl. oz
$51.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
EltaMDPM Therapy Facial MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTDR. JETSKE ULTEEMoisturizerSkincyclopediaMoisturizing face cream with 20%e.l.f. CosmeticsPure Skin Moisturizer
Match—91%91%91%
Price$51.00——$12.00−$39.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 53 of 53 of 5
Key difference—Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateCeramide ApCeramide Eop
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "EltaMD - PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed rice protein and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide mea, caesalpinia spinosa gum, ethylhexyl isononanoate, glyceryl stearate and hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We particularly like that there is a good concentration of niacinamide (niacinamide 4.40% - 5.40%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 39.00$ in the United States, for 79.95A$ in Australia and for 33.99£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

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EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer
EltaMDPM Therapy Facial Moisturizer

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.