ELEMIS Limited Edition Lunar New Year Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Limited Edition Lunar New Year Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Efficacy 62/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
8 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Under-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–0.65%
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.2–5.2%
COLLAGEN AMINO ACIDSRole: Key activeHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2.1%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
GLYCERYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMERRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~0.25–0.45%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.65%
TRITICUM VULGARE GERM OILRole: Key activeA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.3–0.6%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Partial evidence

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient ginkgo biloba leaf extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Under-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–0.65%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.65%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.2–5.2%
Glyceryl stearate seRole: Key activeUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~2.8–3.4%
DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2.1%
Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.1–1.3%
Coco-caprylate/caprateRole: Key activeHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.55–0.8%
Triticum vulgare germ oilRole: Key activeA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.3–0.6%
Chlorella vulgaris extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~0.25–0.45%
Ginkgo biloba leaf extractRole: Key activeA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Porphyridium cruentum extractRole: Key activeA red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Collagen amino acidsRole: Key activeHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
Irritancy
13 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~4.2–5.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.6–0.85%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeLow~0.16–0.32%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistencyLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineLow~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.1–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
6 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin
High risk
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).High~0.3–0.6%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Padina pavonica thallus extractMight help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Porphyridium cruentum extractA red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollientMed~2.8–3.4%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.2–5.2%
Key activeLow-irritation
Glyceryl stearate se~2.8–3.4%
Key activeComedo · medium
Isononyl isononanoate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Dimethicone~1.7–2.1%
Key active
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Polyacrylate-13~1.3–1.5%
Formula
Cetyl alcohol~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Stearic acid~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Tocopheryl acetate~0.6–0.85%
Low-irritation
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Polyisobutene~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Parfum~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Tocopherol~0.4–0.65%
Under-dosed
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosedComedo · high
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Low-irritation
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.3–0.6%
Key activeComedo · high
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedo · highLow-irritation
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Key activeLow-irritation
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Padina pavonica thallus extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedo · high
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Sorbitan isostearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Porphyridium cruentum extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedo · high
Acacia decurrens extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Rosa centifolia flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Collagen amino acids~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.25%
Low-irritation
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.25%
Low-irritation
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Low-irritation

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