PRODUCT REVIEW
Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty Asta C
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
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Can it cause trouble?
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Cheaper alternatives
Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Anti-aging
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.9% -
9.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
astaxanthin
0.75% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
2.2% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Evens skin tone
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.9% -
9.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
2.2% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Moisturizing
betaine
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
lactobacillus ferment
0.65% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
squalane
3.4% -
4.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
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Anti-oxidation
astaxanthin
0.75% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.9% -
9.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
2.2% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
2.2% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
curcuma longa root extract
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
corallina officinalis extract
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
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| Price | |||||||||||
| WIMJ similarity score |
52%
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51%
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46%
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42%
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Other: | Common:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
lactobacillus ferment
0.65% -
1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces irritation
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
2.2% -
2.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
curcuma longa root extract
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
corallina officinalis extract
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
All ingredients
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.9% -
9.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
glycerin
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Ingredient list view
Water, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Ethylhexyl olivate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Citric acid, Curcuma longa root extract, Astaxanthin, Lactobacillus ferment, Haematococcus pluvialis oil, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Betaine, Coccinia indica fruit extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Tocopherol, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Sodium phytate, 1,2-hexanediol, Mica, Butylene glycol, Tin oxide, Ci 77891, Xanthan gum, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891
Sources
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitor
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and b-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymes
- Astaxanthin attenuates the UVA-induced up-regulation of matrixmetalloproteinase-1 and skin fibroblast elastase in human dermal fibroblasts
- Protective Effects of Topical Application of a Poorly Soluble Antioxidant Astaxanthin Liposomal Formulation on Ultraviolet-Induced Skin Damage
- The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoaging
- Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face study
- Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applications
- Melia azedarach
- Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overview
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols