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Product summary

"Dr. Melaxin - BP Pore Barrier Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Melaxin - BP Pore Barrier Cream ticks this box. Acetyl hexapeptide-8, panthenol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, persea gratissima fruit extract, vinyl dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetearyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.80% - 2.20%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.25% - 0.45%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.15% - 0.25%, copper tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.15% - 0.30%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Adenosine 0.35% - 0.65%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.25% - 0.45%, madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.45%, asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
  • An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.55% - 0.85%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.