Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Anti Aging Moisturiser

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Ferulic + Retinol Anti Aging Moisturiser
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients In 3 routines

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Tetrapeptide-21, Collagen amino acids + 22 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Ferulic + Retinol Anti Aging Moisturiser”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: tetrapeptide-21

Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.3–1.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.6–6.9%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.5%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Stearyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.15%

Tetrapeptide-21HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~2.5–3.1%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~4.5–5.4%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~3.2–3.9%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.85%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.25–0.5%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.55–0.8%

Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~2–2.5%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Anti-aging

Retinol, Adenosine + 7 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Ferulic + Retinol Anti Aging Moisturiser”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract, ferulic acid, tetrapeptide-21.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.4%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.35–0.6%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Tetrapeptide-21Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Ferulic acid + 8 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.4%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.35–0.6%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.25–0.4%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Ellagic acidEffect: LowCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Glycolic acid + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Retinol + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, retinol.

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Ellagic acid + 5 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains ellagic acid, glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ferulic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Ellagic acidKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.25–0.5%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

9 strong irritants: Arnica montana flower extract, Retinol + 7 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Benzophenone-3Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorptionHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.25–0.4%est.

Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Ci 75120An orange dyeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.3–1.6%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Ellagic acidCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Behenic acidHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.55–0.85%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.5%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.25–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.6–6.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane~4.5–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Isododecane~3.2–3.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane

Dimethiconol~2.5–3.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Cyclohexasiloxane~2–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Cyclotetrasiloxane~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cyclotetrasiloxane

Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.3–1.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Stearyl dimethicone~0.95–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Stearyl dimethicone

Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.7–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Octadecene~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Octadecene

Cetearyl alcohol~0.55–0.85%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Polymethyl methacrylate~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate

Isohexadecane~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Collagen amino acids~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids

Ferulic acid~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Gallic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Gallic acid

Ellagic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone

More about Ellagic acid

Arnica montana flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin

More about Arnica montana flower extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Retinol~0.25–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Morus alba leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Morus alba leaf extract

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract

Glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein

Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Adenosine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Saccharide isomerate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Salix alba bark extract~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Tetrapeptide-21~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tetrapeptide-21

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Glycerin~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Glyceryl behenate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate

Acrylates/carbamate copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acrylates/carbamate copolymer

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Tetrahydropiperine~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tetrahydropiperine

Bht~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Benzophenone-3~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption

More about Benzophenone-3

Glyceryl stearate se~0.25–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Citric acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer

Dimethicone crosspolymer-3~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer-3

Cyclodextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Behenic acid~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Behenic acid

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract

Citrus limon peel extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract

Citral~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Limonene~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Ci 75120~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An orange dye

More about Ci 75120

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Dimethiconol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Butylene glycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Stearyl dimethicone, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Octadecene, Cetearyl alcohol, Polymethyl methacrylate, Isohexadecane, Collagen amino acids, Ferulic acid, Gallic acid, Ellagic acid, Arnica montana flower extract, Centella asiatica extract, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Tocopherol, Morus alba leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf extract, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Glycine soja oil, Adenosine, Saccharide isomerate, Salix alba bark extract, Tetrapeptide-21, Caprylyl glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl behenate, Acrylates/carbamate copolymer, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tetrahydropiperine, Bht, Benzophenone-3, Glyceryl stearate se, Citric acid, Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, Dimethicone crosspolymer-3, Cyclodextrin, Sodium citrate, Tetrasodium edta, Ascorbyl palmitate, Hexylene glycol, Polysorbate 80, Behenic acid, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Ci 75120

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Anti Aging MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCT	MedicubeKojic Acid Turmeric Vita Capsule Cream	COSRXMoisturizer The Retinol 0.1 Cream	Beauty PieSuper Retinol Night Renewal Moisturiser
Match	—	73%	71%	71%
Price	$82.00	$25.69−$56.31	$24.06−$57.94	$24.58−$57.42
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 21	9 of 21	7 of 21
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid	Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 45 studies and safety reviews.

1
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
3
Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Applicationkarger.com
6
Tolerance and Efficacy of a Product Containing Ellagic and Salicylic Acids in Reducing Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots in Comparison With 4% Hydroquinonejddonline.com
7
Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ellagic Acid on Keratinocytes via MAPK and STAT Pathwaysmdpi.com
8
Effects of Topical Arnica Gel on Post-Laser Treatment Bruisesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Effects of microcurrent application alone or in combination with topical Hypericum perforatum L. and Arnica montana L. on surgically induced wound healing in Wistar ratsthieme-connect.com
10
The seamy side of natural medicines: contact sensitization to arnica (Arnica montana L.) and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.)onlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Accelerated resolution of laser‐induced bruising with topical 20% arnica: a rater‐blinded randomized controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
13
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
15
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
17
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
19
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
24
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
26
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
29
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
31
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
32
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
34
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
37
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
39
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
40
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
41
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
42
Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone‐3onlinelibrary.wiley.com
43
Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients A Randomized Clinical Trialjamanetwork.com
44
On Photostability of Oxybenzonecore.ac.uk
45
Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatologydoi.org

Dr Dennis GrossFerulic + Retinol Anti Aging Moisturiser

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