Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Dark Spot Sun Defense

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Dark Spot Sun Defense
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

SPF 50Efficacy90/100IrritancyMedium·2 UV filters

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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 50 · 2 UV filters

Broad spectrum

SPF 50Broad spectrumMineral filters

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

It is a mineral sunscreen. In other words, it contains non-organic UV filters. It will probably not sting your eyes but might leave a white cast.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~4.6–5.6%

Zinc Oxide Mineral UVBUVA Photo-stable A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant~3.9–4.8%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Reef-safe

No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.

Moisturizing

27 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This complex also helps minimize and prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles.”

Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carthamus tinctorius seed oil, glycine soja oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.6–0.9%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~1.8–2.2%

Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.6–0.9%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.6–0.9%

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.65–0.95%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.7–1.05%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.6–0.95%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.6–0.9%

Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.65–0.95%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.5–1.9%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~1.4–1.7%

Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.3–1.6%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.3%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.55–0.85%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2.7–3.3%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2.2–2.7%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.6–0.9%

Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.6–0.9%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.75–1.1%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.55–0.85%

Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

Evens skin tone

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Dark Spot Sun Defense”

From product name

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.6–0.9%

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.75–1.15%

Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.8–1.2%

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.75–1.15%

Anti-aging

10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This complex also helps minimize and prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles.”

Source: Sephora Hong Kong

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tripeptide-38.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

This product can also help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.7–1.05%

MelatoninEffect: LowA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.95–1.15%

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.6–0.9%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (melatonin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

MelatoninKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.95–1.15%

Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.6–0.95%

Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.65–0.95%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~1.8–2.2%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.75–1.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil

Medium risk

We flagged 27 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract—High~0.6–0.9%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.6–0.9%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2.2–2.7%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.5–1.9%est.

Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.3–1.6%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~1–1.2%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.8–1.2%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.75–1.15%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.75–1.15%est.

Nordihydroguaiaretic acidUsed to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.65–0.95%est.

Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.6–0.95%est.

Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.65–0.95%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.6–0.9%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.6–0.9%est.

Polyhydroxystearic acidUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~0.65–0.95%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Isopropyl titanium triisostearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~1.3–1.6%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.6–0.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.4–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Titanium dioxide~4.6–5.6%

UV filterKey active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Zinc oxide~3.9–4.8%

UV filterKey active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide

Isononyl isononanoate~2.7–3.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Pentylene glycol~2.2–2.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~1.8–2.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil

Olea europaea fruit oil~1.5–1.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Coconut alkanes~1.3–1.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes

Butylene glycol~1.1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~1–1.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Melatonin~0.95–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare

More about Melatonin

Ascorbyl glucoside~0.8–1.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.75–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.75–1.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Tocopherol~0.75–1.1%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.7–1.05%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Sodium hyaluronate~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Nordihydroguaiaretic acid~0.65–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Nordihydroguaiaretic acid

Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.6–0.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil

Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.6–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract

Phospholipids~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Sphingolipids~0.6–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids

Saccharide isomerate~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract

Oryza sativa extract~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract

Oenothera biennis oil~0.65–0.95%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil

Glycolic acid~0.6–0.9%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Sodium pca~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Zinc pca~0.55–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

Oleanolic acid~0.6–0.9%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

More about Oleanolic acid

Lactic acid~0.6–0.9%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Glycine soja oil~0.6–0.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Acrylates/carbamate copolymer~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acrylates/carbamate copolymer

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.6–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.65–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate

Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate

Polyhydroxystearic acid~0.65–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Polyhydroxystearic acid

Peg-60 almond glycerides~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Peg-60 almond glycerides

Xanthan gum~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Disodium edta~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Citric acid~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium citrate~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Sodium hydroxide~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Isohexadecane~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Caprylyl glycol~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Polysorbate 60~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Carbomer~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Propanediol~0.5–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Stearic acid~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Sorbitan isostearate~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Isopropyl titanium triisostearate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Isopropyl titanium triisostearate

Bht~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Aluminum hydroxide~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)

More about Aluminum hydroxide

Tromethamine~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Isononyl isononanoate, Pentylene glycol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Coconut alkanes, Butylene glycol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Melatonin, Ascorbyl glucoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Sodium hyaluronate, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Saccharide isomerate, Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract, Oryza sativa extract, Oenothera biennis oil, Glycolic acid, Sodium pca, Zinc pca, Oleanolic acid, Lactic acid, Glycine soja oil, Acrylates/carbamate copolymer, Hydrogenated lecithin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Sodium hydroxide, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl glycol, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Propanediol, Stearic acid, Sorbitan isostearate, Isopropyl titanium triisostearate, Bht, Aluminum hydroxide, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil

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Product summary

We believe that "Dr Dennis Gross - Dark Spot Sun Defense" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredients listed. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Because it includes good moisturizing ingredients, it can also work as a hydrating day cream. This product prevents early signs of aging by protecting against sun damage (all broad spectrum sunscreens do that).

Sunscreen filters

It is a mineral sunscreen. It uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection. Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide almost never irritate even the most sensitive skin and eyes, but can leave a white cast.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of it to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 42.00$ in the United States, for 49.26£ in the United Kingdom and for 350.00HK$ in Hong Kong.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 42 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxideonlinelibrary.wiley.com
3
Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreensncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen productsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Ultraviolet Protection Properties of Commercial Sunscreens and Sunscreens Containing Zno Nanorodsiopscience.iop.org
6
ZnO nanoparticles and organic chemical UV-filters are equally well tolerated by human immune cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
[Melatonin in dermatology. Experimental and clinical aspects]researchgate.net
9
The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studiesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
14
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
16
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
18
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, an inhibitor of lipoxygenase, also inhibits cytochrome P-450-mediated monooxygenase activity in rat epidermal and hepatic microsomes.dmd.aspetjournals.org
19
Antimutagenic and antitumorigenic activities of nordihydroguaiaretic acidsciencedirect.com
20
Estrogenic activity of an antioxidant, nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA)sciencedirect.com
21
Molecular mechanisms and clinical applications of nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA) and its derivatives: An updatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acidsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin reliefpatents.google.com
24
Plant-Derived Immunomodulatorssciencedirect.com
25
The role of epidermal sphingolipids in dermatologic diseasesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Anthocyanins Extracted from Oryza sativa L. in Primary Dermal Fibroblastshindawi.com
27
Rice antioxidants: phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, proanthocyanidins, tocopherols, tocotrienols, c-oryzanol, and phytic acidonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
31
Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesisonlinelibrary.wiley.com
32
Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review hindawi.com
33
Effectiveness of the formulation that containing oleanolic acid 3% on inhibition of 5-α reductase activity on skin of patients with acnelongdom.org
34
The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
37
Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
38
Safety Assessment of Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
40
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
41
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
42
Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenesonlinelibrary.wiley.com

Dr Dennis GrossDark Spot Sun Defense

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.