DERMO28

DERMO28 Unica Unica Home Therapy; Intensive Anti-Aging Therapy

Name: DERMO28 - Unica Unica Home Therapy; Intensive Anti-Aging Therapy
Brand: DERMO28

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Exfoliation

Glycolic acid, Lactic acid + 2 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“An intensive anti-ageing treatment that deeply exfoliates, moisturises, plumps and brightens your skin.”

Source: Allbeauty

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3.1–3.8%

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.4–0.6%

Anti-aging

Glycolic acid, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 + 3 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Unica Unica Home Therapy; Intensive Anti-Aging Therapy”

From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lactic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3.1–3.8%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.5–0.75%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.4–0.6%

Moisturizing

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Faex + 8 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“-UnicaSystem (Blend of Matrikines – Trace elements – Soy Isoflavones) – synergy of active principles for a 360° treatment against ageing -Vitamin C – antioxidant, de-pigmenting and stimulating of Collagen -Alfa and Beta hydroxyl-acids (Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic Acid) – exfoliating, moisturising and carrier agents -Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) – antioxidant -Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) – stimulates the cellular turnover -Fagus Selvatica bud extracts – stimulating and elasticising -Yeats bio-elements – oxygenating and restoring”

Source: Allbeauty

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": faex, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

FaexKey active· HumectantEffect: HighYeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~3.1–3.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4.2–5.1%

Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.5–0.75%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Lactic acid, Glycolic acid + 4 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

Yeast extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid + 1 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Retinyl palmitate + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~8–9.8%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~2.3–2.8%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.6–0.9%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.4–0.6%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~3.1–3.8%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.5–0.75%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Alcohol denat.~8–9.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Butylene glycol~4.2–5.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Lactic acid~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose~1.9–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polysorbate 20~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Sodium hydroxide~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Salicylic acid~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Fagus sylvatica bud extract~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Fagus sylvatica bud extract

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Retinyl palmitate~0.4–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Sodium polyacrylate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate

Disodium edta~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Saccharide isomerate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Faex~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Yeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Faex

Yeast extract~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract

Soy isoflavones~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Soy isoflavones

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Glycerin~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Carbomer~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Hydrogenated polydecene~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Alcohol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Trideceth-6~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Trideceth-6

Polysorbate 80~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Lecithin~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Citric acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium citrate~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Parfum~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Alcohol denat., Butylene glycol, Lactic acid, Glycolic acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Sodium hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Salicylic acid, Fagus sylvatica bud extract, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium polyacrylate, Disodium edta, Saccharide isomerate, Faex, Yeast extract, Soy isoflavones, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Glycerin, Carbomer, Hydrogenated polydecene, Alcohol, Trideceth-6, Polysorbate 80, Lecithin, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	DERMO28Unica Unica Home Therapy; Intensive Anti-Aging TherapyYOUR PRODUCT	CliniqueClarifying Do-Over Peel	SkinnNon-Negotiables Acid Resurfacing Pads Duo	PRIORI SkincareGel Perfector LCA fx120
Match	—	73%	72%	71%
Price	$36.09	$30.82−$5.27	$42.86+$6.77	—
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 10	4 of 10	5 of 10
Key difference	—	Lactobionic Acid	Oatmeal Extract	Vitamin E
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"DERMO28 - Unica Unica Home Therapy; Intensive Anti-Aging Therapy" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory, Exfoliation, Evens skin tone, Anti-aging, Moisturizing and Anti-blemish

Ingredient callouts

Exfoliating acids (glycolic acid 2.30% - 2.80% and lactic acid 3.10% - 3.80%). In this concentration, they will have a noticeable exfoliating effect. They can also have an anti-aging effect and stimulate collagen production in a long-run. Lactic Acid can also help to attract water to the upper layer (works as a humectant).
This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.40% - 0.60%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.25% - 0.45%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Salicylic acid (0.60% - 0.90%) in this product will have an exfoliating effect and help smooth the skin. We, however, do not recommend using a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid daily to avoid over-exfoliating.