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Dermedicine Plant-Based Citrus Stem Cell Cream
Dermedicine

Dermedicine Plant-Based Citrus Stem Cell Cream

Efficacy37/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
11 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Loaded with naturally derived stem cells, this anti-aging cream works to improve the appearance of skin color and tone while leaving skin feeling firmer, looking stronger, and appearing more plump.”
Source: Dermdeicine

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: isomalt, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: chondrus crispus extract, dimethicone.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.5–2.3%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.5–1.15%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.8–2.7%
IsomaltKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.7%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~6.3–9.4%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–3.5%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.9–5.9%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.1–0.35%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.05–0.2%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Anti-aging
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Loaded with naturally derived stem cells, this anti-aging cream works to improve the appearance of skin color and tone while leaving skin feeling firmer, looking stronger, and appearing more plump.”
Source: Dermdeicine

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.05–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.4–0.9%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.1–3.1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.5–1.15%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–3.5%est.
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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~6.3–9.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–3.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Polysorbate 60~2.1–3.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Dimethicone~1.8–2.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Squalane~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Sodium hyaluronate~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf cell culture extract~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf cell culture extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chondrus crispus extract~0.5–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Rosa damascena extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Isomalt~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Isomalt
Lecithin~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Propylene glycol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Citric acid~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Lactic acid~0.05–0.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone, Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate, Rhododendron ferrugineum leaf cell culture extract, Phenoxyethanol, Chondrus crispus extract, Rosa damascena extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isomalt, Lecithin, Sodium benzoate, Propylene glycol, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Parfum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 9 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
  5. 5
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dermedicine Plant-Based Citrus Stem Cell Cream
DermedicinePlant-Based Citrus Stem Cell Cream
Buy at Dermdeicine$85.00Amazon

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Buy at Dermdeicine$85.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.