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Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Firm
Dermalogica

Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Firm

Efficacy83/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-oxidation
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Glycyrrhetinic acid + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.1–1.7%
Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.2–0.8%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~1.9–2.8%
Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.55–1.25%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.5–1.2%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.45–1.05%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.75%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%
Anti-aging
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“Protect your skin from damage, improve smoothness and combat the long term effects of premature ageing with Dermalogica Multi Vitamin Power Firm, designed specifically for your eye and lip area.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product contains glycyrrhetinic acid. This ingredient help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.1–1.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.75%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%
Moisturizing
Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 + 8 more
Works
What the product description says
“Packed with Vitamins A, C and E, this serum brightens and moisturizes under eyes, while firming and minimizing the appearance of wrinkles.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~23–34%
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~5.4–8.1%
Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~4.5–6.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.7–2.6%
Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.55–1.25%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.5–1.2%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.45–1.05%
Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~3.7–5.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.1–1.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Chamomilla recutita extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.95–1.45%est.
Spilanthes acmella flower extractPlant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skinHigh~0.85–1.3%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~3.7–5.5%est.
Polylactic acidUsed as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliationMedium~2.7–4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1.9–2.8%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.7–2.6%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.55–1.25%est.
Hydrogenated soybean oil—2/5~0.15–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Cyclopentasiloxane~23–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~5.4–8.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Dimethicone crosspolymer~4.5–6.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer
Cetyl ethylhexanoate~3.7–5.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate
Polylactic acid~2.7–4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used as an abrasive ingredient for physical (mechanical) exfoliation

More about Polylactic acid
Tocopheryl acetate~1.9–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.7–2.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Chamomilla recutita extract~0.95–1.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita extract
Spilanthes acmella flower extract~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin

More about Spilanthes acmella flower extract
Corallina officinalis extract~0.55–1.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.5–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.45–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Ascorbic acid~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.2–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Boron nitride~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to absord oil and evenly disperse other ingredients (for example, pigment) in product formulation

More about Boron nitride
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Hydrogenated soybean oil~0.15–0.55%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
More about Hydrogenated soybean oil
Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Flavor/aroma
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Polylactic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Spilanthes acmella flower extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Ascorbic acid, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Boron nitride, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated soybean oil, Benzyl alcohol, Unknown

Compare prices

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Bluemercury
$69.00
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Amazon USPrice as of 11/10 00:43 GMT
$69.00
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Dermstore0.5 fl. oz
$69.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaMultiVitamin Power FirmYOUR PRODUCTCetaphilHydrating Eye Gel CreamThe Body ShopAloe Soothing Eye & Lip Contour CareCliniqueAll About Eyes™ Eye Cream With Vitamin C
Match—30%30%30%
Price$69.00$14.95−$54.05—$36.14−$32.86
Shared key ingredients—4 of 102 of 102 of 10
Key difference—NiacinamidePanthenolLinoleic Acid
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop
  • matches yours
  • differs
  • cheaper

More alternatives: Paula's choice RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Gelgoop Colorblur Tinted Glow Lip + Cheek Balm with Vitamin C

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Product summary

"Dermalogica - MultiVitamin Power Firm" could be helpful for: Anti-aging, Moisturizing and Evens skin tone, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.35% - 0.80%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.50%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails from 47.50$ up to 69.00$ in the United States, from 49.00£ up to 611.00£ in the United Kingdom, for 115.00CA$ in Canada, for 86.95A$ in Australia and for 588.00HK$ in Hong Kong.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety assessment of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Transdermal behaviour of the N-alkylamide spilanthol (affinin) from Spilanthes acmella (Compositae) extractssciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Culturesar.iiarjournals.org
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Boron Nitride as Used in Cosmetics cir-safety.org
Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Firm
DermalogicaMultiVitamin Power Firm
Buy at Bluemercury$69.00$69.00as of 11/10 00:43 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$69.00$69.00as of 11/10 00:43 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.