Dermalogica Hydratant Active Moist

Dermalogica Hydratant Active Moist

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Dimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 14 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Hydratant Active Moist”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: saccharide isomerate, methyl gluceth-20.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.75–1.1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–7%
Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.15%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.25–0.5%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2–2.4%
Methyl gluceth-20Key active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it~2.3–2.8%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.3–1.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.6–0.95%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~1.5–1.8%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~4.4–5.4%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Citrus limon fruit extract, Malva sylvestris flower extract + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Arctium lappa root extractPlant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Hedera helix extractA plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effectHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Malva sylvestris flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Nasturtium officinale extractUsed as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–7%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~4.4–5.4%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~2–2.4%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~2–2.4%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Pentylene glycol~4.4–5.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Butylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Methyl gluceth-20~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it

More about Methyl gluceth-20
Coconut alkanes~2–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Palmitic acid~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Stearic acid~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Saccharide isomerate~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Dimethicone~0.75–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Glyceryl stearate~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Arctium lappa root extract~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Arctium lappa root extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Hedera helix extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

A plant extract that has an anti-bacterial effect

More about Hedera helix extract
Malva sylvestris flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance

More about Malva sylvestris flower extract
Nasturtium officinale extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Nasturtium officinale extract
Propanediol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Polyquaternium-10~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish

More about Polyquaternium-10
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Triethyl citrate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate
Myristic acid~0.25–0.5%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Citrus limon peel extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Lavandula hybrida flower extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Aminomethyl propanol~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Methyl gluceth-20, Coconut alkanes, Cetearyl alcohol, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Saccharide isomerate, Dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Arctium lappa root extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Hedera helix extract, Malva sylvestris flower extract, Nasturtium officinale extract, Propanediol, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Allantoin, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Polyquaternium-10, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethyl citrate, Myristic acid, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Lavandula hybrida flower extract, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Sodium hydroxide, Aminomethyl propanol, Citral, Linalool, Limonene

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Dermalogica Hydratant Active Moist
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