Dermadoctor

Dermadoctor Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Ether Serum with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin Esters

Name: Dermadoctor - Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Ether Serum with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin Esters
Brand: Dermadoctor

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging

Epigallocatechin gallate, Ferulic acid + 2 more

May help

What the product description says

“Kakadu C 20% Vitamin C Ether Serum with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin Esters”

From product name

This product contains epigallocatechin gallate, ferulic acid. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.9–1.35%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.15–0.65%

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~7.3–10.9%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.8–1.25%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Epigallocatechin gallate + 3 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, epigallocatechin gallate also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~7.3–10.9%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.15–0.65%

Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking~1.1–1.6%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.8–1.25%

Moisturizing

Side benefit · Glycerin, Sodium hyaluronate + 5 more

Works

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

GlycerinKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–4.1%

Sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%

Butylene glycolEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2.5%

Epigallocatechin gallateEffect: LowA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.9–1.35%

Caprylyl glycolEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.65%

PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.05–0.15%

Evens skin tone

Side benefit · 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Epigallocatechin gallate + 1 more

May help

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, ferulic acid.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Alcohol

Medium risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~7.3–10.9%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.5–1.2%est.

EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~3.7–5.5%est.

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2–3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~1.3–2%est.

Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lackingMedium~1.1–1.6%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.2–0.8%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

Formulyst Active Serum – Vitamin B, C, E, Ferulic + Niacinamide

Higher efficacy · 100/10058% match

Aesthetics Rx Vitamin C Serum 23%

Higher efficacy · 100/10057% match

$85.09

View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~7.3–10.9%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid

Ethoxydiglycol~3.7–5.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin~2.7–4.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~2–3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil

Butylene glycol~1.6–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Citric acid~1.3–2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~1.1–1.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract

Epigallocatechin gallate~0.9–1.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizing

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

More about Epigallocatechin gallate

Tocopherol~0.8–1.25%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Alcohol~0.5–1.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Sodium citrate~0.4–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Triethanolamine~0.2–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine

Ferulic acid~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium edta~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Hexylene glycol~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Panthenol~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Ingredient list view

Water, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Butylene glycol, Citric acid, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Epigallocatechin gallate, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Sodium citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta, Hexylene glycol, Panthenol, Sodium hyaluronate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	DermadoctorKakadu C 20% Vitamin C Ether Serum with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin EstersYOUR PRODUCT	e.l.f. CosmeticsBright Icon Vitamin C + E + Ferulic Serum	FormulystActive Serum – Vitamin B, C, E, Ferulic + Niacinamide	NourishMaxVITAMIN C + B + E + FERULIC & RETINOL SERUM
Match	—	64%	58%	58%
Price	—	—	—	$59.00
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 7	5 of 7	5 of 7
Key difference	—	Vitamin C	Vitamin C	Vitamin C
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

More alternatives: Aesthetics Rx Vitamin C Serum 23%skinmade Vitamin C E + Alpha Arbutin serum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

1
Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitorncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
4
The chemotherapeutic potential of Terminalia ferdinandiana: Phytochemistry and bioactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Great green tea ingredient? A narrative literature review on epigallocatechin gallate and its biophysical properties for topical use in dermatologyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
6
Comparative Evaluation of Different Co-Antioxidants on the Photochemical- and Functional-Stability of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate in Topical Creams Exposed to Simulated Sunlightmdpi.com
7
Photodegradation of (−)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical cream formulations and its photostabilizationsciencedirect.com
8
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
10
Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Applicationkarger.com
13
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
14
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
15
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net

DermadoctorKakadu C 20% Vitamin C Ether Serum with Ferulic Acid and Vitamin Esters

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