Dermadoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot Treatment

Dermadoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot Treatment

Efficacy0/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Exfoliation
Salix nigra bark extract, Allantoin
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Deep pore penetrating, therapeutic formulation absorbs excess surface skin oils, exfoliates dead skin cells and leaves skin feeling healthy and refreshed.”
Source: Skinstore

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Salix nigra bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain salicylic acid~0.2–0.35%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-blemish
Oleanolic acid ~0.55–0.8%, below the ~1% it needs
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Ain't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot Treatment”
From product name

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

KaolinEffect: LowA type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color~5.8–7.1%
BentoniteEffect: LowHelps stabilize the product formulation~2.4–2.9%
PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.55–0.8%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Phytosphingosine, Glycerin + 6 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: phytosphingosine, caprylyl glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: phytosphingosine

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~1.2–1.5%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.55–0.8%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.25%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis extract, Avena sativa kernel extract + 1 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumTea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.15–0.3%
Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.25%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.55–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.3–0.6%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Hamamelis virginiana extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Nordihydroguaiaretic acidUsed to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.7–1%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Salix nigra bark extractA plant extract that might contain salicylic acidMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Kaolin~5.8–7.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingAnti-blemish

A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color

More about Kaolin
Magnesium aluminum silicate~4.2–5.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Glycerin~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Bentonite~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemish

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Bentonite
Boswellia serrata extract~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Butylene glycol~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Peg-60 almond glycerides~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-60 almond glycerides
Caprylyl glycol~1.2–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Carbomer~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid~0.7–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Nordihydroguaiaretic acid
Oleanolic acid~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

More about Oleanolic acid
Citric acid~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Zinc oxide~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide
Rosa damascena extract~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Titanium dioxide~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-blemishReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Phytosphingosine~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemish

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Salix nigra bark extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

A plant extract that might contain salicylic acid

More about Salix nigra bark extract
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Panthenol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Camellia sinensis extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Tea extract. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Camellia sinensis extract
Rosa damascena extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Propylene glycol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Hamamelis virginiana extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana extract
Avena sativa kernel extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract
Citrus limon peel oil~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Kaolin, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Glycerin, Bentonite, Boswellia serrata extract, Butylene glycol, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Caprylyl glycol, Carbomer, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Oleanolic acid, Citric acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Zinc oxide, Rosa damascena extract, Titanium dioxide, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Allantoin, Phytosphingosine, Salix nigra bark extract, Xanthan gum, Panthenol, Potassium sorbate, Camellia sinensis extract, Rosa damascena extract, Propylene glycol, Bht, Hamamelis virginiana extract, Avena sativa kernel extract, Citrus limon peel oil, Parfum

Compare prices

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/13 12:34 GMT
$39.95
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermadoctorAin't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot TreatmentYOUR PRODUCTMEDIHEALD.N.A Hydrating Protein Sheet MaskElizabeth ArdenSuperstart Probiotic Boost Skin Renewal Biocellulose Mask x4DEW OF THE GODS™CLAYDATE HEALING FACE MASK
Match—60%60%58%
Price$39.95———
Shared key ingredients—4 of 104 of 106 of 10
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1Lactic AcidMineral Oil
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermadoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot Treatment
DermadoctorAin't Misbehavin' Intensive Acne Mask and Emergency Spot Treatment

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.