Dermacept by Dr. Zein Obagi Vitamin C5 Serum

Dermacept by Dr. Zein Obagi Vitamin C5 Serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Ascorbic acid
May help
What the product description says
“This high-performing serum contains 5% pure L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and Vitamin E to gently smoothen skin, fade acne scars and create a more radiant complexion. Use sunscreen after application.”
Source: Yesstyle

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.1–1.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~2.3–3.4%
Anti-aging
Centella asiatica extract, Serine + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“Potent Vitamin C serum infuses skin with antioxidants that help combat environmental stress and neutralize the effect of free radicals inside skin cells.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product contains centella asiatica extract, serine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.95–1.45%
SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.1–1.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~2.3–3.4%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tocopherol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.1–1.6%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.95–1.45%
Cynara scolymus leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating~0.55–1.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~2.3–3.4%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Faex + 4 more
Works

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": faex, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.95–1.45%
FaexKey active· HumectantEffect: HighYeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.25%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.05–0.15%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.5–2.2%
BetaineUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Alcohol, Citrus grandis extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~6.5–9.7%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~2.3–3.4%est.
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~1.1–1.6%est.
Cynara scolymus leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritatingHigh~0.55–1.3%est.
Citrus grandis extract—High~0.2–0.8%est.
Citrus grandis fruit extract—High~0.2–0.7%est.
Citrus paradisi fruit extract—High~0.1–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.95–1.45%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Propanediol~22–34%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Alcohol~6.5–9.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Water~4–6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Isopentyldiol~3–4.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Isopentyldiol
Ascorbic acid~2.3–3.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Tocopherol~1.5–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~1.1–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Centella asiatica extract~0.95–1.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Cynara scolymus leaf extract~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating

More about Cynara scolymus leaf extract
Faex~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Faex
Salicornia herbacea extract~0.45–1%
Formula
Serine~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Citrus grandis extract~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Or
Not recognized
Citrus grandis fruit extract~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Or
Not recognized
Citrus paradisi fruit extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Betaine~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Glycerin~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Peg/ppg-300/55 copolymer~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Parfum~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Propanediol, Alcohol, Water, Isopentyldiol, Ascorbic acid, Tocopherol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Centella asiatica extract, Cynara scolymus leaf extract, Faex, Salicornia herbacea extract, Serine, Citrus grandis extract, Unknown, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Unknown, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Betaine, Glycerin, Peg/ppg-300/55 copolymer, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dermacept by Dr. Zein ObagiVitamin C5 SerumYOUR PRODUCTObagiC20 SerumRohto MentholatumObagi Vitamin C Serum C25 NeoBlissPro Brightening Serum
Match—97%94%89%
Price——$110.61—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 86 of 83 of 8
Key difference—Yeast ExtractYeast ExtractNiacinamide
Irritancy High High High Low
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol —
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Product summary

"Dermacept by Dr. Zein Obagi - Vitamin C5 Serum" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (2.30% - 3.40%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • Humectants (glycerin 0.05% - 0.15% and faex 0.55% - 1.25%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Dermacept by Dr. Zein Obagi Vitamin C5 Serum
Dermacept by Dr. Zein ObagiVitamin C5 Serum

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