Derma E

Advanced Peptides and Collagen Moisturizer

Name: Derma E - Advanced Peptides and Collagen Moisturizer
Brand: Derma E

Efficacy 75/100·Medium irritancy · In 1 routines

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

"Derma E - Advanced Peptides and Collagen Moisturizer" has a good moisturizing formula.

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Product summary

"Derma E - Advanced Peptides and Collagen Moisturizer" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Acetyl hexapeptide-8, panthenol and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, macadamia ternifolia seed oil and glyceryl stearate citrate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.45% - 1.10% and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.60% - 1.40%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.40% - 0.95%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Derma E" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 23.80$ up to 35.95$ in the United States and for 41.95A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

9 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, panthenol

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8Role: HeroA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.1%

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.6–1.4%

PANTHENOLRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.3–2%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–7.1%

SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OILRole: Under-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.15–0.6%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.75%

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.55%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.8–4.1%

Anti-aging

4 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-38. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8Role: HeroA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.1%

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.6–1.4%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.75%

Evens skin tone

2 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Partial evidence

This product contains ingredients (pinus pinaster bark extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

PINUS PINASTER BARK EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)~0.35–0.85%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–7.1%

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilRole: Key activePlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~3.7–5.5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.8–4.1%

Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.7–2.5%

DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.3–2%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.6–1.4%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.1%

PanthenolRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%

Glyceryl stearate seRole: Key activeUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.35–0.8%

CollagenRole: Key activeCannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products~0.2–0.75%

Irritancy

12 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hamamelis virginiana bark/leaf extract—High~0.15–0.6%est.

Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsLow~3.7–5.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~2.8–4.1%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinLow~1–1.6%est.

Pinus pinaster bark extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)Low~0.35–0.85%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.2–0.75%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.15–0.65%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Low~0.15–0.6%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.1–0.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.05–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Glyceryl stearate se ~0.35–0.8% — rinse-off or low %

Low risk

We flag 1 ingredient with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollientMed~0.35–0.8%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels