Derm Institute Cellular Brightening Toner
Works for: Moisturizing | Evens skin tone | Exfoliation | Anti-aging | Anti-oxidation | Anti-blemish
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Product summary
"Derm Institute - Cellular Brightening Toner" is effective for: Anti-aging, Anti-oxidation, Anti-inflammatory, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish
Ingredient callouts
- A good concentration of Niacinamide (4.10% - 5.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- Ceramides (ceramide eop 0.20% - 0.35%, phytosphingosine 0.35% - 0.65%, ceramide ap 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide np 0.35% - 0.65%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- Peptides (oligopeptide-68 0.30% - 0.55%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 1.60% - 1.90% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
- Humectants (glycerin 0.35% - 0.65%, sodium hyaluronate 0.55% - 0.80% and panthenol 1.60% - 1.90%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails from 65.00£ up to 467.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 80.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Benefits
Promise: Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Key Benefits Works to reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone Long-lasting moisture complex supports skin's natural barrier Protects against environmental stressors and UV damageSalicylic acid provides gentle exfoliationAlcohol-free and fragrance-free formulaVegan friendly UK300025791
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ascorbyl glucoside.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| niacinamide | HIGH |  |  |
| ascorbyl glucoside | MEDIUM | | |
| morus bombycis root extract | LOW |  | |
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Promise: Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Salicylic acid provides gentle exfoliation without irritating the complexion, helping maintain an even skin tone and texture.
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| salicylic acid | HIGH | | |
| allantoin | LOW | | |
Promise: Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Key Benefits Works to reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone Long-lasting moisture complex supports skin's natural barrier Protects against environmental stressors and UV damageSalicylic acid provides gentle exfoliationAlcohol-free and fragrance-free formulaVegan friendly UK300025791
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cholesterol, glycine soja oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, niacinamide, oligopeptide-68, panthenol, phytosphingosine
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| sodium hyaluronate | HIGH | | |
| ceramide ap | HIGH | | |
| ceramide eop | HIGH | | |
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Other benefit: Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| niacinamide | HIGH | | |
| phytosphingosine | LOW | | |
| salicylic acid | HIGH | | |
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Other benefit: Anti-aging
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, oligopeptide-68, vitis vinifera seed extract.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| niacinamide | HIGH | | |
| ascorbyl glucoside | MEDIUM | | |
| oligopeptide-68 | MEDIUM | | |
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Other benefit: Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - ascorbyl glucoside also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| vitis vinifera seed extract | HIGH | | |
| ascorbyl glucoside | MEDIUM | | |
| bisabolol | LOW | | |
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
66/100.
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Potential irritants
IRRITANCY
HIGH
| Ingredient | Irritancy | Skin Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| propylene glycol | | |
| salicylic acid | | |
| parfum | | |
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Similar products & dupes
 Derm Institute - Cellular Brightening Toner | Paula's choice - Pore-Reducing Toner | CeraVe - Blemish Control Gel Moisturiser with 2% Salicylic Acid & Niacinamide for Blemish-Prone Skin | Skindivision - PHA + BHA Perfecting Toner | Creightons Beauty Store - Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Tonic 1 | Moon Juice - Acid Potion Resurfacing Exfoliator | Pestle & Mortar - Clarify 2% BHA salicylic toner | NACIFIC - Pink AHA BHA Serum | Zombie Beauty - Bloody Peel | INNBEAUTY PROJECT - Down to Tone Life Changing Toner | Skin proud - Daily AHA BHA Detox Tonic with Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic Acid | |
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Ingredients & concentrations
KEY INGREDIENTS
- niacinamide
- salicylic acid
- ascorbyl glucoside
- phytosphingosine
- ceramide eop
- panthenol
- ceramide ap
- oligopeptide-68
- ceramide np
- vitis vinifera seed extract
- bisabolol
- cholesterol
- glycerin
- glycine soja oil
- sodium hyaluronate
- allantoin
- +12 more
| Ingredient | Estimated concentration |
|---|---|
| 45% - 55% | |
| Plain old water | |
| 4.8% - 5.9% | |
| Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin | |
| 4.1% - 5% | |
| Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production | |
| 3% - 3.6% | |
| Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin | |
| 2.3% - 2.8% | |
| A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine | |
| 2% - 2.4% | |
| Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture | |
| 1.6% - 1.9% | |
| Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function | |
| 1.5% - 1.9% | |
| A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products | |
| 1.1% - 1.4% | |
| An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties | |
| 1% - 1.2% | |
| Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.7% - 1.1% | |
| Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin | |
| 0.6% - 0.9% | |
| Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions | |
| 0.6% - 0.9% | |
| An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together | |
| 0.55% - 0.8% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.5% - 0.7% | |
| Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating | |
| 0.5% - 0.8% | |
| Helps oil and water mix together | |
| 0.5% - 0.75% | |
| Helps water and oil mix together | |
| 0.45% - 0.65% | |
| A fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skin | |
| 0.5% - 0.75% | |
| Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties | |
| 0.4% - 0.6% | |
| A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products | |
| 0.35% - 0.65% | |
| Helps water and oil mix together | |
| 0.4% - 0.65% | |
| A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture | |
| 0.35% - 0.65% | |
| An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) | |
| 0.35% - 0.6% | |
| Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture | |
| 0.16% - 0.32% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.3% - 0.5% | |
| Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| Used to create a thicker product consistency | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation | |
| 0.35% - 0.65% | |
| A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| Used to adjust the pH level of products | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Stabilizes the product formulation | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin | |
| 0.35% - 0.65% | |
| A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect | |
| 0.4% - 0.6% | |
| An emollient that is naturally found in skin | |
| 0.35% - 0.65% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients. | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations. | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles | |
| 0.75% - 1.1% | |
| Helps oil and water mix together and create a thicker product consistency | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.1% - 0.2% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.1% - 0.2% | |
| Helps stabilize and preserve a product formulation | |
| 0.25% - 0.5% | |
| 0.25% - 0.45% | |
| A plant extract that might contain arbutin, a compound that has skin-lightening properties. Might have some anti-oxidant activity. Is unlikely to be effective though in the concentrations typically used in skincare products | |
| 0.2% - 0.4% | |
| A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties | |
| 0.2% - 0.35% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.15% - 0.3% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.15% - 0.3% | |
| Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking | |
| 0.2% - 0.35% | |
| A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin | |
| 0.15% - 0.25% | |
| A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant | |
| 0.1% - 0.25% | |
| A fragrance. Can be irritating | |
| 0.1% - 0.15% | |
| A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant | |
| 0.05% - 0.15% | |
| A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat | |
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Sources
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- The Topical Effect of Grape Seed Extract 2% Cream on Surgery Wound Healing
- Review of the Pharmacological Effects of Vitis vinifera (Grape) and its Bioactive Constituents: An Update
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfite
- Physiological and Whitening Effects of Morus alba Extracts
- Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plants
- Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasis
- Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentation
- Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenone
- l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Study
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties