What's In My Jar
Darphin Renewing Pro-Vitamin C and E Oil Concentrate
Darphin

Darphin Renewing Pro-Vitamin C and E Oil Concentrate

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Coco-caprylate/caprate + 10 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Infused with Rosehip and Argan oil, the formula works to rehydrate skin, combatting dryness to nourish the surface.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~1.9–2.8%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~22–33%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–8.6%
Heptyl undecylenateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~3.6–5.4%
Argania spinosa kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~1.5–2.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.8–1.25%
Triticum vulgare germ extractKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.5–1.15%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.4–0.9%
7-dehydrocholesterolKey activeEffect: HighPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis~0.4–0.95%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.75%
Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%
Anti-aging
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Resveratrol + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This helps to smooth out fine lines and imperfections, enhancing your skin’s natural radiance.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~4.6–7%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%
Exfoliation
Salicylic acid
Works well
What the product description says
“It gently polishes the skin to reveal a smoother, even texture while blurring the look of fine lines and locking in moisture for a plumper complexion that looks nourished and healthy.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.2–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Resveratrol + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: salicylic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~4.6–7%
ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.4–0.9%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.2–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Resveratrol + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~4.6–7%
ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.4–0.9%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~2.2–3.3%
Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~1.5–2.2%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: LowCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.5–1.15%
Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.5–1.15%
Hordeum vulgare extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten~0.95–1.4%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Salicylic acid, Linoleic acid + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid, rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.2–0.7%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~1.9–2.8%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.5–1.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Rosa moschata seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa moschata seed oil—High~1.7–2.6%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1.15%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.2–0.7%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–8.6%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~4.6–7%est.
Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishMedium~3.6–5.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~2.2–3.3%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Hordeum vulgare extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to glutenMedium~0.95–1.4%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
7-dehydrocholesterolPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasisMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.5–1.15%est.
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Super Antioxidant Serum
Paula's choice Super Antioxidant Serum
Cheaper70% match
$52.13
8% AM Vitamin C Serum
Glow Jar 8% AM Vitamin C Serum
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Coco-caprylate/caprate~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–8.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~4.6–7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Heptyl undecylenate~3.6–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish

More about Heptyl undecylenate
Tocopheryl acetate~2.2–3.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Linoleic acid~1.9–2.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Rosa moschata seed oil~1.7–2.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosa moschata seed oil
Argania spinosa kernel oil~1.5–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil
Oxycoccus palustris seed oil~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oxycoccus palustris seed oil
Hibiscus abelmoschus extract~1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hibiscus abelmoschus extract
Hordeum vulgare extract~0.95–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten

More about Hordeum vulgare extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.8–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.5–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.5–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
7-dehydrocholesterol~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Pro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis

More about 7-dehydrocholesterol
Propylene glycol caprylate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Propylene glycol caprylate
Resveratrol~0.4–0.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol
Tocopherol~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Linolenic acid~0.4–0.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Salicylic acid~0.2–0.7%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Squalane~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Zea mays oil~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil
Parfum~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Geraniol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Coumarin~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Bht~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Coco-caprylate/caprate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Heptyl undecylenate, Tocopheryl acetate, Linoleic acid, Rosa moschata seed oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Oxycoccus palustris seed oil, Hibiscus abelmoschus extract, Hordeum vulgare extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Triticum vulgare germ extract, 7-dehydrocholesterol, Propylene glycol caprylate, Resveratrol, Tocopherol, Linolenic acid, Salicylic acid, Squalane, Zea mays oil, Parfum, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Bht, Phenoxyethanol

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/11 00:02 GMT
$72.50
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SpaceNK US
$99.00 Out of stock
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DarphinRenewing Pro-Vitamin C and E Oil ConcentrateYOUR PRODUCTPaula's choiceSuper Antioxidant SerumGlow Jar8% AM Vitamin C SerumREVOLUTION SKINCAREOvernight Restoring Concentrate
Match—70%70%69%
Price$72.50$52.13−$20.37$41.38−$31.12$1.87−$70.63
Shared key ingredients—2 of 133 of 136 of 13
Key difference—Ferulic AcidVitamin CEvening Primrose Oil
Irritancy High Low Low High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 33 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
  5. 5
    Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.europepmc.org
  6. 6
    Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Darphin Renewing Pro-Vitamin C and E Oil Concentrate
DarphinRenewing Pro-Vitamin C and E Oil Concentrate
Buy on Amazon$72.50 · as of 11/11 00:02 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$72.50 · as of 11/11 00:02 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.