PRODUCT REVIEW
Cheaper alternatives
What can the product work for?
Works for
Cleansing
cera alba
2.5% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
hydrogenated castor oil
1.2% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
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Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
Promise | Can it deliver? |
---|---|
Cleansing | |
Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
sd alcohol 40
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
A drying alcohol. Mainly used to dissolve other ingredients. Can increase the irritation potential of the formula
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Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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WIMJ similarity score |
36%
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34%
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33%
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33%
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32%
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32%
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32%
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32%
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32%
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31%
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Key ingredients |
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common: Other:
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| Common: Other:
| Common: Other: | Common: Other:
| Common:
Other:
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Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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Potential Irritants |
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All ingredients |
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
hydrogenated castor oil
1.2% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
Show more
Potential irritants
sd alcohol 40
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
A drying alcohol. Mainly used to dissolve other ingredients. Can increase the irritation potential of the formula
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
cetearyl ethylhexanoate
5.7% -
7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin
glycerin
3.9% -
4.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Ingredient list view
Water, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Zinc oxide, Cera alba, Octyldodecanol, Polyacrylate-13, Olea europaea fruit extract, Hydrogenated castor oil, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium sulfate, Octyldodecyl xyloside, Peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyisobutene, Tocopheryl acetate, Caprylyl glycol, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Sd alcohol 40, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Sorbitan isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Origanum majorana leaf extract, Chlorophyllin-copper complex, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
- Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreens
- Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen products
- Ultraviolet Protection Properties of Commercial Sunscreens and Sunscreens Containing Zno Nanorods
- ZnO nanoparticles and organic chemical UV-filters are equally well tolerated by human immune cells
- Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trial
- Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate
- Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production
- Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation
- Safety Assessment of Magnesium Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215