Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Light

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Light

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Protects against damaging blue light and environmental aggressors Broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection Lightweight formulation of hydrating crambe seed oil and coconut alkanes Vitamin E conditions and moisturises the skin Helps to encourage a smooth, dewy complexion UK200027142”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, c12-15 alkyl benzoate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl tetrapeptide-9HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-11HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.2–1.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.4–2.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.65–1%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.25–0.45%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.5–1.8%
Crambe abyssinica seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%
Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.45–0.65%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.55–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Skin Type All Skin Types Targeting Dullness Fine Lines & Wrinkles Dehydration The Good Stuff Cruelty Free Paraben Free Silicone Free SPF Sun Protection Sulphate Free Nourish and protect the skin and encourage a radiant complexion with Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Light, a lightweight formula that boosts hydration and helps to defend against pollution, UVA and UVB rays with SPF 20.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl tetrapeptide-9. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-11Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Michelia alba leaf oil + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.2–0.35%est.
Michelia alba leaf oilAn essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~5.4–6.6%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~4.4–5.4%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~2.5–3.1%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Crambe abyssinica seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.65–1%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
XanthophyllsA yellow colorantMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~1.5–1.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Homosalate~5.4–6.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate
Octocrylene~4.4–5.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl salicylate~3.5–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.5–3.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Butylene glycol~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Coconut alkanes~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Glycerin~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Silica~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Crambe abyssinica seed oil~0.65–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Crambe abyssinica seed oil
Cetyl alcohol~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Caprylyl methicone~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Peg-75 stearate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Polysorbate 20~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Marrubium vulgare extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Ceteth-20~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20
Steareth-20~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Carbomer~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Rosa damascena extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Beta-carotene~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Xanthophylls~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A yellow colorant

More about Xanthophylls
Michelia alba leaf oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritating

More about Michelia alba leaf oil
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Solanum tuberosum pulp extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Acetyl tetrapeptide-11~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl tetrapeptide-9~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-9
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butylene glycol, Coconut alkanes, Glycerin, Silica, Crambe abyssinica seed oil, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Caprylyl methicone, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Peg-75 stearate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Marrubium vulgare extract, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Disodium edta, Rosa damascena extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hydroxide, Beta-carotene, Tocopherol, Xanthophylls, Michelia alba leaf oil, Citric acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Solanum tuberosum pulp extract, Acetyl tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl tetrapeptide-9, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Charlotte TilburyMagic Cream LightYOUR PRODUCTYouth To The PeoplePolypeptide-121 Future CreamPeter Thomas RothFace Care Wrinkle Resist Eye CreamFilorgaGLOBAL-REPAIR Nutri-Restorative Cream
Match—55%55%52%
Price$34.00$64.00+$30.00$59.76+$25.76$37.65+$3.65
Shared key ingredients—3 of 93 of 95 of 9
Key difference—NiacinamideTripeptide-1Niacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Charlotte Tilbury - Magic Cream Light" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed oil, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetyl alcohol, coco-caprylate/caprate and coconut alkanes) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-9 0.15% - 0.30% and acetyl tetrapeptide-11 0.15% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Charlotte Tilbury" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 128.94A$ in Australia, from 34.00$ up to 75.10$ in the United States and from 26.00£ up to 76.97£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream Light
Charlotte TilburyMagic Cream Light

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.