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Chantecaille 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream
Chantecaille

Chantecaille 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Acetyl heptapeptide-9 + 30 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“24K Gold Energizing Face Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl heptapeptide-9, palmitoyl tripeptide-5

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.3–0.5%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%
Acetyl heptapeptide-9HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5–6.1%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.55–0.85%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.55%
Myristyl myristateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~1.7–2.1%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~3.6–4.4%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.25–0.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.3–1.6%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.3–0.6%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~6.5–7.9%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~28–34%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.35–0.65%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.25–0.5%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.3–0.55%
Ananas sativus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skin~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.65%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.65–0.95%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.8–1.15%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Acetyl heptapeptide-9 + 8 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“A luxurious treatment balm infused with 24-karat gold and a vegan gold peptide to create unparalleled anti-aging power.”
Source: Chantecaille

This product contains acetyl heptapeptide-9, palmitoyl tripeptide-5. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Acetyl heptapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureEffect: LowHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.65–0.95%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ascorbic acid + 1 more
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“Maintain skin’s natural health and vitality while reducing multiple signs of ageing with Chantecaille Nano Gold Energising Cream, a luxurious balm formulated with a high concentration of botanical ingredients that cares for and repairs skin.Containing a blend of 24-k gold and silk, which boast antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, this cream brightens and evens skin tone while stimulating natural collagen production.”
Source: SpaceNK

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Rosa damascena flower oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 38 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~28–34%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
EscinA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Sorbitan tristearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.9–1.1%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.4%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ananas sativus fruit extractA fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium79%
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~2.3–2.8%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~1.7–2.1%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.65–0.95%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~3.6–4.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~28–34%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Cyclopentasiloxane~6.5–7.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin~5–6.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glyceryl stearate se~3.6–4.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Propanediol~2.8–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Ethylhexyl palmitate~2.3–2.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Peg-40 stearate~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 stearate
Myristyl myristate~1.7–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Cetyl alcohol~1.3–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Sorbitan tristearate~0.9–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan tristearate
Stearic acid~0.8–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.65–0.95%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Dimethicone~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer
Polyacrylamide~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Diphenyl dimethicone~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Diphenyl dimethicone
Sorbitol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Ppg-25-laureth-25~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ppg-25-laureth-25
Mica~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Pullulan~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Bisabolol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Oenothera biennis oil~0.3–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Ci 77891~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Squalane~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Dimethiconol~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Laureth-7~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Sodium polyacrylate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Maltodextrin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Acacia dealbata flower wax~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acacia dealbata flower wax
Citrus arantium amara (bitter
Not recognized
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Flower wax
Not recognized
Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax
Nannochloropsis oculata extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A microalgae extract that helps to attact water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Nannochloropsis oculata extract
Panthenol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Phytic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Peg-8~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Ci 77491~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Iron oxides~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Escin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin

More about Escin
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ruscus aculeatus root extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ruscus aculeatus root extract
Ammonium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ammonium glycyrrhizate
Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Hydrolyzed yeast protein~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed yeast protein
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Echinacea angustifolia root extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Echinacea angustifolia root extract
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Ananas sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A fruit extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, but there is no evidence for any other benefits to the skin

More about Ananas sativus fruit extract
Glyceryl caprylate~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Acetyl heptapeptide-9~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl heptapeptide-9
Colloidal gold~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Colloidal gold
Citronellol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Sorbic acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Undecylenic acid~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Undecylenic acid
Benzoic acid79%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
From origin
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate se, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Peg-40 stearate, Myristyl myristate, Cetyl alcohol, Sorbitan tristearate, Stearic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Dimethicone, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Caprylyl glycol, Diphenyl dimethicone, Sorbitol, Ppg-25-laureth-25, Mica, C13-14 isoparaffin, Butylene glycol, Pullulan, Bisabolol, Borago officinalis seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Squalane, Xanthan gum, Dimethiconol, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Laureth-7, Sodium polyacrylate, Tocopheryl acetate, Maltodextrin, Hexylene glycol, Rosa damascena flower oil, Acacia dealbata flower wax, Unknown, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Unknown, Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax, Nannochloropsis oculata extract, Panthenol, Phytic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Peg-8, Ci 77491, Iron oxides, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Alcohol, Escin, Tocopherol, Ruscus aculeatus root extract, Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Centella asiatica extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Hydrolyzed yeast protein, Ascorbyl palmitate, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Echinacea angustifolia root extract, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Sodium citrate, Ananas sativus fruit extract, Glyceryl caprylate, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Acetyl heptapeptide-9, Colloidal gold, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Benzyl alcohol, Sodium dehydroacetate, Sorbic acid, Undecylenic acid, Benzoic acid, Unknown

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Product summary

"Chantecaille - 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and peg-8) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Borago officinalis seed oil, oenothera biennis oil, dimethicone, dimethiconol and myristyl myristate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.45%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl heptapeptide-9 0.25% - 0.50% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c, vitamin e, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, titanium dioxide and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Chantecaille" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails from 425.00$ up to 566.00$ in the United States and from 375.00£ up to 2765.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 34 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Final report on the safety assessment of sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, and sorbitan triisostearatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  5. 5
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
Chantecaille 24K Gold Energizing Face Cream
Chantecaille24K Gold Energizing Face Cream
Buy at Bluemercury$425.00Amazon

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Buy at Bluemercury$425.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.