Caudalie VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer

Caudalie VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 13 more
Works well
What the product description says
“VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–6.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–3.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.6%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.1–1.7%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.3–0.75%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.5–5.2%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~2.8–4.2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.75%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.5%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“Caudalie's VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer (formerly VINEACTIV 3-in-1 Moisturizer) is crafted with potent ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to alleviate fine lines and free radical damage.”
Source: Dermstore

This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.1–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
EscinA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skinHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Hamamelis virginiana leaf extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Cinnamic acid—High~0.1–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.1–3.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.85–1.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.1–0.5%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.6%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.4–2.1%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.1–6.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.5–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Isononyl isononanoate~2.8–4.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.1–3.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Peg-20 stearate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-20 stearate
Cetyl alcohol~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.85–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Palmitoyl grape seed extract~0.5–1.1%
Formula
Carbomer~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Arginine~0.3–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Cyathea cumingii leaf extract~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Escin~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin

More about Escin
Ammonium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Picea abies extract~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.1–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Sodium phytate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Polysorbate 20~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Cinnamic acid~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cinnamic acid
Levulinic acid~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Sodium levulinate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.1–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.1–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Citric acid~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Isononyl isononanoate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetearyl alcohol, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Peg-20 stearate, Cetyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Palmitoyl grape seed extract, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Cyathea cumingii leaf extract, Escin, Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Caprylyl glycol, Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Xanthan gum, Picea abies extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Sodium phytate, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl caprylate, Cinnamic acid, Levulinic acid, Sodium levulinate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Citric acid

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
CaudalieVineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTAllies of SkinRetinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night CreamElizabeth ArdenHyaluronic Acid + Peptides Ceramide Hydra-Plumping Water CreamPeter Thomas RothFace Care Wrinkle Resist Eye Cream
Match—70%69%69%
Price——$61.74—
Shared key ingredients—6 of 65 of 64 of 6
Key difference—MadecassosidePhytosphingosineTripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Caudalie - VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer" works well for moisturizing the skin. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Arginine, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride and helianthus annuus seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.10% - 0.40% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.10% - 0.35%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 44.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Caudalie VineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer
CaudalieVineActiv Vitamin C Smoothing Moisturizer

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